master cylinder

[ytnova]

Hey guys, I know most of you have changed from the stock master on our novas to a lighter aluminum one. I checked the tech article john has, but what is the easist way to go? I was looking at a manual one from a mid 80's s-10 as well as some of the late model chrysler ones. Are any of these a direct bolt on? Has anyone done the conversion with the stock disc/drum brakes? Thanks guys

[John_Heard]

They'll both bolt on, but the Chrysler will have to have the holes slotted for the Nova Pattern. It's not very difficult to do though.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you use some type of pushrod retention device regardless which one you use so that if your push rod comes loose, it can not fall out. This is the ideal time to do this and may save your bacon some day. The S10 model MUST have one, as there is no hole for the pushrod to sit in, only a chamfer. The Chrysler has a hole, but it's still a VERY good idea just in case.

The aluminum bodied Chrysler is slightly lighter than the GM, but it's harder to find the fittings for. Oh, and many Chrysler masters love to leak a little fluid around the reservoir caps for some unknown reason. S10 doesn't seem to have that problem.

[ytnova]

Thanks john, I think I will try and shoot for the s-10 first. I looked them up in them up and the s-10 has a 1" bore which is the same as the stock nova one. I will let you know how it goes. I Got the itch to remove a bunch of weight from the front of the car and this is only one of the things I am looking at.

[John_Heard]

Another thing about the S10 Masters, they are more difficult to bleed. When you're bleeding them, wait at least 30 seconds between cycles to allow the fluid back in. I remember reading that a long time ago. It's because they have a quick take up rear port which moves more volume for the drum brakes (I think it's the rear one).

[ytnova]

Thanks john.