Wheel Stud Length

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71 Nova · #1 Post by **71 Nova** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:20 pm

When I was at the track, it was recommended that I use longer wheel studs, which is mandatory at some point I think. I can't remember what the required length past the face of the wheel was, 2 times the stud diameter? Can anyone confirm?

Also, can you use mag wheel lug nuts with longer studs, by cutting off the end cap of the nut to allow the stud to protrude thru? Would a nut modified like that be strong enough and/or legal, or do I need new studs?
Thanks

mytmouz · #2 Post by **mytmouz** » Sun Apr 15, 2007 10:07 pm

IF you get the Moroso wheel studs, new open ended lugs with washers are usually the right length without having to modify anything. This is if you are running a weld type wheel, which it looks like in your avatar. I'd upgrade to 1/2 studs, and get new lugs, Cheap insurance and peace of mind.

mytmouz · #3 Post by **mytmouz** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:21 am

See you got the same answer on another board,

71 Nova · #4 Post by **71 Nova** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 11:11 am

Hey, nobody was on here, so I thought I'd try "over there". But I should know by now that someone always drops in here to provide an answer!

BTW, what were YOU doing "over there", huh??? jk/lol

TubbedTruck67 · #5 Post by **TubbedTruck67** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 3:46 pm

It seems like I was thinking the legal length was 1/2 inch through the hex on the lugnut. But I could be wrong. Anybody else?

#6 Post by **John_Heard** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:59 pm

"The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the of the stud/bolt. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility. (Example: A 7/16-inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16-inch.)"
from NHRA 2007 Rule Book, Section 16 General Regs

71 Nova · #7 Post by **71 Nova** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:54 pm

Thanks, that sets me straight!

mytmouz · #8 Post by **mytmouz** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:39 pm

I travel several boards. Just seeing what's out there...

71 Nova · #9 Post by **71 Nova** » Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:57 pm

Me 2!

BTW, I assume I need to remove the axles to swap out the studs (???). I have a 10 bolt 8.5” rear end w/ an Auburn Posi and 4.10 Richmond gears. Any trick to getting the axles out? I haven't done this in a while. What kind of RE fluid do you guys recommend?
Thx,
Ken

TubbedTruck67 · #10 Post by **TubbedTruck67** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 11:57 am

Beyond wrote:"The thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the of the stud/bolt. Length of the stud/bolt does not determine permissibility. (Example: A 7/16-inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads in the hex portion of the lug a minimum of 7/16-inch.)"
from NHRA 2007 Rule Book, Section 16 General Regs

I was at least on the right track

DriveWFO · #11 Post by **DriveWFO** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:55 pm

71 Nova wrote:Me 2!

BTW, I assume I need to remove the axles to swap out the studs (???). I have a 10 bolt 8.5” rear end w/ an Auburn Posi and 4.10 Richmond gears. Any trick to getting the axles out? I haven't done this in a while. What kind of RE fluid do you guys recommend?
Thx,
Ken

Just remove the wheel cylinder, spin the axle around to line up the stud with the opening from where the wheel cylinder was and pound it out. Insert the new stud and pull it in using some old lug nuts & washers.

71 Nova · #12 Post by **71 Nova** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 10:16 pm

Well, that's a bit easier! Thx!!

71 Nova · #13 Post by **71 Nova** » Sat May 05, 2007 11:52 pm

Installed the studs and didn't even need to remove the brake cylinder. There was enough room between the axle and the backing plate to slide the studs in (2.75 in length). Just gotta find the right spot...

Wheel Stud Length

Wheel Stud Length

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