C/E Weld In Connectors / Rear Weld in frame rails

[Ls7camaro]

New Guy here. Has Anyone installed C/E weld in sub frame connectors and the Rear frame rails? Currently in the process and would appreciate any help. Also, how do you know how big of wheel tubs you need? 36", 38", 40". The run down is that if I still lived in PA, I wouldn't really have this problem. But since moving to OH, everyone that I used to go to races with is 275 miles away. So I started this project. Thank you for any help.

[sc racing]

IMO put in the 40" tubs ,you already have the rear cut out unless there is something in the way that you cant remove.

[Ls7camaro]

I don't think there is anything in the way. I just have to get the rear frame rails in, from the lip on the inside to the new frame rails looks like it will open up the width by about 5 1/2 inches. My other question, how do you check to make sure everything is squared up? I am thinking that check side to side and make sure the measurements are even, then diagonal from C bracket to spring housing, and same w/rear frame, I am also going to use the C/E Shock crossmember. For a year and a half I kept looking for someone to do this but nobody would. I even took the car to a high end shop and they said it would be done in 2 weeks, 2 mos later it was still sitting outside under a pine tree. Again, Thanks everyone for the help. This is a bigger project than I would like. OH, combination is a 454 / TH350 (Boss Hogg 3500 stall) / 10 bolt 4.10 gears. It was a real LS7 but to keep compression down I used ls6 pistons and then the cam didn't work w/the new pistons.

[sc racing]

I think you can get a video from Chassis Engineering on installing frame rails and 4 link or ladder bars.It should explain how to get it all square.The Camaro in my avitar had a crate LS7 that I got from a GM dealer,It was a really fun street car.

[Ls7camaro]

I will have to check that out. I have everything in a 79 camaro. I had the car for about 12 years now. It had a 327 someone put in it, the guy that had it blew up the 305. I had the 327 rebuilt and at the track the car went 13.08, with the B/B it went 12.00 I tried a sniper kit on it and bumped up to 11.46. I want to fine tune the motor now, but concentrate on this rear end. I want to get the rear frame and suspension ready to handle more power.

[Ls7camaro]

Thank you for your help. This weekend I am going to put the pass. side in and then start the rear of the car.

[sc racing]

Just do a lot of measuring BEFORE welding anything.

[Ls7camaro]

OK, I have everything completely gutted, do you need to cut out the trunk, then mount the frame rail, then weld in the new metal?

Again, Thank you very much for your help.

[Ls7camaro]

Your camaro, did you do any mods to your front crash bar. I was told that you can aleviate a good bit of wieght by cutting the nader bar up and just leave some to keep the nose in place.

Any other suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.

[sc racing]

Basically you should have everything from the behind the front seats to the rear bumper completely removed.I took out the entire front bumper,all the brackets,the braces under the frame,cut the core support under the radiator. The car weighed 3400lbs w/driver iron head BBC th350 6 point roll bar,frame connectors full interior with rear seat all original glass.

[Ls7camaro]

thank you very much.
Not changing subject, what kind of times did you turn in your camaro with that setup? After I get this rear done, I am going to cut some wt out of the front then, You can remove the whole front crash bar or bumper brace? I already removed the crash bars in the doors, I have down tubes in place.

[sc racing]

I left the upper support to hold the bumper cover and keep the headlights nothing else.It ran 10.30's-10.40's @130 mph with old mono leafs and slapper bars.

[Dave Morgan]

Concerning the squaring of your work...
I don't recommend that you rely on stock dimensions. In your vintage of car, the tolerances for body measurements was 3/4-inch! Instead, create a chassis center line, based off the frame pivots for the front A-arms and rear suspension brackets. Plumb bob down to the ground from these points and find the midway point for each suspension end of the car. Then connect these two mid-points with a common line via a stretched piece of string... that's your chassis centerline. You can rely on that for all side-to-side dimensions. Use a couple of carpenter's squares and butt them against each other and against the centerline and create a line perpendicular to the chassis centerline. This can be used to measure front-to-rear. You can use these two reference lines to confirm how badly the entire floor of the car is distorted. It's a sad testimony to the workmanship of American cars during the 60's and 70's.
I hope this helps,
Dave Morgan

[Ls7camaro]

OK, how do you know where to put the shocks, angles or verticle, the go behind the axle correct? And is there any suggestion on what size square stock to use when mounting the Fuel cell, I also want to tie the rear rollbar tubes to the new frame rails, they were mounted over the old frame rails, what size square stock to use, and Last question, why do people use leaf spring sliders? is this something to look into?

[ytnova]

Most of us have gone to the sliders because it frees up some of the binding usually encountered with shackles. If I remember right, it also makes the springs have a more linear rate.