Still need help with this damn ford

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(Translated by Admin)

I posted earlier about my DAD's mustang that wont 60' better than 2 seconds.

I posted earlier for help getting my Dad's car to 60' better. I was unclear on a few things so I'll try again the car is a 2004 Mustang Mach One, 5 speed with 4.10 gears, Eibach drag launch springs with strange adjustable shocks and struts, 100shot NX wet kit on a throttle switch.

Problem is no traction. Currently running 275/45/17 MT ET drag radial. Once pedal goes to floor tires get blown away. Stock control arms still on car. I was told that control arms would probably cure traction woes but I'm not convinced.

Would you guys go to a 15''rim and tire to gain some sidewall? I'm leaning toward a 28x11.5 ET drag bias ply on a 15x10 wheel, any suggestions? Trying to help the Old man out, he's hungry for an 11 second slip. He'd be Stoked. Please help me help my dad.

What baseline setting on the shocks and struts what tire should work ?

Thanks very much in advanced.

OPINION on Eibach springs? He's gone 118MPH which should be well into the 11's right?

[dannyman]

i would get some slicks for the track and if that didnt work take out the motor put it if the trunk for weight and put in a chevy and get a 10sec slip

[HPDRIFTER]

i would get some slicks for the track and if that didnt work take out the motor put it if the trunk for weight and put in a chevy and get a 10sec slip

I like the way you think. The Chevy part, anyway.

[ricksterman]

WIth those mods, 4.10's, N2O, a stick and 17" drag radials that car won't hook, period. A good driver could maybe get a 1.8x 60' out of them on a well prepped track launching at low RPM and knowing exactly when to roll into it, but the first shift will likely get you loose again. A 3750# car that traps 118 should be able to hit 11's. Powershifting (0.2-0.25 second shifts) will be necessary however. If you don't already take out all unnecessary weight (jack, spare, passenger seat, etc.) that always helps. Keep in mind that the tremec and 28 spline axles are not designed for that powerlevel and slicks, as I mentioned in my other post, expect parts to start breaking at some point without reinforcement.

You can fit 10x15 rims on it with a 6.5" backspace, but instead of 11.5, I would go with 28x10.5 -they're cheaper, and for about 400 RWHP they will work fine. The 28" tall tires will help offset the gears also. Try a starting pressure of 12 cold (unless you know how to drive on slicks) and drop them to no less than 10 (cold). To run the nitrous right you need a good controller that has a window switch and can disable based on TPS signal and clutch. Backfires on launch or the shift can be nasty with a wet kit.

Based on the amount of nitrous and the fact that a near stock Mach1 will have about 275RWHP (N/A) at an A/F of about 12.75, you need to have the vehicle tuned for a sprayed A/F of 10.6, and no more than 11.2 (anywhere in the powerband), these are based on stochiometric A/F of gas and nitrous. I assume you have the requisite fuel delivery and plugs, and it's been properly dynotuned. To avoid plug blowout I would gap them between 0.028-0.032 since the powerband extends beyond 6K (stock). I would also run 101 gas, and keep timing below 23 degrees. All of this advice is moot if the car has been dynotuned by a reputable tuner who knows Modular ford motors very well.

A two-step such as the MSD launch master or N2MB WOT Box (which also has a built in nitrous switch that can do what I mentioned) will help, otherwise bring the RPMs up to 4500-6000 (depends on power/track) and see what happens.

Single adjustable struts like the Strange that adjust both rebound and compression have limited use for this setup, since the setting that gives optimum weight transfer will also allow it drop fast in a nose heavy car with stock suspension like this one. For the front I would try a setting a bit stiffer (6-8) and right in the middle (5) for the rear. The fronts will have the largest effect, the rear will be negligable (for you). If you can't get any weight transfer (spins badly) set the fronts full soft, and maybe stiffen the rear 1-2 clicks, if it dead hooks then starts to spins, stiffen up the fronts. Really 90/10 and 50/50 drag struts/shocks are the best starting point for that car.

What I've told you isn't internet wisdom gained from endless trolling, but hard experience, and a couple of engineering degrees. This site is a goldmine of information, so I gladly contribute my time and knowledge to it. Use it as you will.

Everyone is going to Chevy motors it seems. I will agree with one thing they are the best bang for the buck, but a SBF or BBF can make the same power, and even these tiny little 281's can run well (J. Mihovetz, etc.), it just takes more time and money.