Coil Spring Height

[Bruce69Camaro]

I'm using Moog 6308 (for a 6 cyl) coil springs in the front of my 69 Camaro, w/ a big block. I want the car to sit lower in the front.
Can anyone tell me, if I would cut off 1 link, how much will that drop it?

Thanks

Bruce

[johnh]

1 coil = 2 inches is what I was taught.

[Bruce69Camaro]

Thanks John,

Nice looking nova in your avatar, I take that it is yours?

Bruce

[johnh]

Your welcome and yes the Nova is mine.

Hope your ride height turns out!

[BillyShope]

The ratio of the amount you cut off to the original free length is equal to the ratio of the desired drop to the original installed length with that last ratio also being divided by the linkage ratio. The linkage ratio is the horizontal distance from the lower arm pivot to the center of the front tire patch divided by the distance from the lower arm pivot to the centerline of the spring as measured on a line perpendicular to the centerline of the spring.
http://www.racetec.cc/shope

[John_Heard]

My experience has been if you cut what you think it will take, trying to do it in one pass, it'll be too much. If you try and cut less than you need, you'll have to go back in and do it again maybe even twice.

It all depends on your pain level for buying new springs if you miss. If money's tight but you have lots of time, take a little bit off at a time and test to see what it does.

[BillyShope]

...take a little bit off at a time and test....

That's exactly what I was trying to avoid, John. There's no reason why it can't be done in one pass.

All right, there is one reason: If the spring has flattened coils at both ends (and I'm certain this is not the case with the car in question), then the installed length becomes more difficult to measure.
http://www.racetec.cc/shope

[Bruce69Camaro]

Thanks for the help guys.....

I'll tell you what, I'm not looking forward to doing this, so how about some help? I'll buy the pizza...

When it's time to cut, will a reciprocating saw or a port-o-band saw work?

Bruce

[John_Heard]

That's exactly what I was trying to avoid, John. There's no reason why it can't be done in one pass.

Yes there is, it's called Murphy's Law of spring cuttin'... the rule goes if you got more time than money, then take off less than you think it'll need, you can always do it again and cut some more...

Bruce, abrasive wheel/chop saw/cut off wheel will work best. I've never tried cutting them in a bandsaw, might be a bit tough on the blade with the spring steel.

[Bruce69Camaro]

Ok, next question....1/4 or 1/2 at a time and does it really matter which side (top or bottom) you cut?

How about my 4.0" angle grinder with a cut off disc?

Come on John, you know you want to go on a road trip to central PA....

Bruce

[John_Heard]

Probably 1/2 a coil at a time would be prudent - how much you wanting to drop it?

Do you springs have flattened ends on both sides? Or does it have a free end?

[Bruce69Camaro]

Right now, from the bottom of the rocker to the ground, it is 9.5".

I'd have to go back and check, but I remember after taking some dimensions, 2" is the number I can safely drop the front end.

As for the ends, I'd have to say they are free because neither end is flatened. It's a replacement coil spring for my car but is for a 6 cyl w/o air.

I was told to use a stock spring and a gas filled shock until I can afford a QA1 setup.

Bruce

[John_Heard]

If both ends are free, then it doesn't matter which end you cut. Just make sure you pay attention to how the spring is clocked so that it will sit down in the spring seats. Stock A-Arms and upper frame mounts have a locator for the end of the spring to sit. If you get the spring turned and not setting down in those it'll set up high.

It depends like Billy said on the spring rate how much it'll take to drop it the 2" you want. I would be surprised if you need to take more than one coil out to get it that much lower since it's a softer spring.

Do some reading up on the QA1 setup if you're thinking about the coil over deal they sell. Not many have been happy with those.

[Bruce69Camaro]

You see, that's what kills me. I've been doing to research and some say they are worth the money and some say that aren't worth a dime, so "WHO" do you listen too?

I listen to my friend at S&W, mainly because, this is what they do for a living and he said the QA1 shocks are the way to go. So like I said, how can I argue with a guy that does this for a living?

For what my car is, now, I think stock springs and maybe a set of drag shocks will be ok. I'm only looking for 10's.....

Just to be safe, I'm going to put a spot of paint on the top part of the spring and cut the bottom. This way I know they came out and back in, in the right direction.

Thanks again for your time and help and any other tips are greatly appreciated.

Bruce

[John_Heard]

What works for a 8 second car, or a low 9 second car isn't what a high 9 or 10 second car wants...

If you're shooting for 10's the stock spring w/shock inside design will get it done for you very well. You want boat loads of travel and a very active front suspension that has very low drag. The a-arms need to be free traveling, removal of the upper rubber bumper to gain travel is also a good idea. With what your doing a cheaper shock will work fine. You don't need to spend a ton of money for that. I used to use Koni SPA-1's on mine when it was a 9 second car, those worked fine but a pain in the butt to adjust, as most stock type shock setups are except the Afco's that have the knob on the bottom.

Maybe some of the other guys will chime in on what the hot shock setup is now for OEM style...