Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Moderators: David Lemmond, Dave Morgan
- hugger73hatch
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:42 pm
Control Arm Bushing Replacement
So I am finally getting around to replacing my front control arm bushings that I bought last year (Energy Suspension). I am wondering if most people use a bearing splitter and a hydraulic shop press to press them out. If so do you have a recommendation as to what splitter to use? I don't want to spend a small fortune. I have looked at some online, but there are a lot to choose from. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
For easy removal of control arm bushings; put a block of wood or some kind of spacer between the gap on the lower side, then clamp in the vice with out distorting. Then get the widest air hammer bit you have and make sure the cutting edge is slightly rounded/not sharp so as not to cut. Then push out with the air hammer. Usually push from two spots. When instaling the new bushings put a spacer the same way, so you do not collapse the control arm. An old peice of exhaust pipe cut to distance works well. Then use the press to put them in. John
- hugger73hatch
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:42 pm
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Got control arms off today and removed both upper ball joints as I am going to replace all the ball joints. Any one have any suggestions on removing the lower ball joints. Should I borrow a ball joint service tool kit? I guess it will make life easier.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
If you get the tool by all means get it. With the tool it will take just a few minutes for both,if the just kinda fall out the hole in the arm is worn and will need to be replaced. Did you get low friction ball joints or just regular ones?hugger73hatch wrote:Got control arms off today and removed both upper ball joints as I am going to replace all the ball joints. Any one have any suggestions on removing the lower ball joints. Should I borrow a ball joint service tool kit? I guess it will make life easier.
- hugger73hatch
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:42 pm
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Just regular from MOOG. I was told it really didn't matter a whole lot. What is your opinion? Also, where can you buy that tool?
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
I've just borrowed them from the local Oreillys auto parts store.
72 Malibu-Nov. '08-1.329-3.995-6.280@106.94-9.988@131.62
best 60ft to date- 1.319
http://www.dragtimes.com/1972-Chevrolet ... -5251.html
best 60ft to date- 1.319
http://www.dragtimes.com/1972-Chevrolet ... -5251.html
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
I dont know about the ball joints,I put them in because I needed new ones and they were not too much more money as far as the tool a good kit will cost a lot so just rent or borrow one.hugger73hatch wrote:Just regular from MOOG. I was told it really didn't matter a whole lot. What is your opinion? Also, where can you buy that tool?
- hugger73hatch
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:42 pm
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
That's my plan. I got a good buddy that owns a shop and he is going to let me borrow his.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
- hugger73hatch
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:42 pm
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Got everything back in today. Now I got to get the alignment done. Project went pretty smooth and I am pleased with the way it looks. Are most of you leaving the control arm bolts somewhat loose to help weight transfer? Before the new bushings I had lock nuts on the bolts and not all the way tight. Just curious.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
I'm using the crimped lock nuts whatever you call them. I snug them down as evenly as possible, allowing the control arm to fall under its own weight.
72 Malibu-Nov. '08-1.329-3.995-6.280@106.94-9.988@131.62
best 60ft to date- 1.319
http://www.dragtimes.com/1972-Chevrolet ... -5251.html
best 60ft to date- 1.319
http://www.dragtimes.com/1972-Chevrolet ... -5251.html
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
They are called Stover nutsBob West wrote:I'm using the crimped lock nuts whatever you call them. I snug them down as evenly as possible, allowing the control arm to fall under its own weight.
- hugger73hatch
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 10:42 pm
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
One more question. This car sees very little street driving and someone told me when I have it aligned to adjust the toe in more than normal as it is recommended for drag racing as there is less friction on the track. How does everyone fell about that? I want to make sure I use the correct lingo as I do not know much of the proper terms for aligning a front end.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
28 x 9 Slick, N/A
http://www.esquireservices.net
-
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 1:09 pm
Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement
Not 100% sure on toe, but I think you want it at or very close to zero for racing. Some other things I was told to do were....
1)ad caster to help the car go/stay straight
2)sit in the car during the alignment so it can be done with your body weight on the chassis
3)do the alignment with the car raised 2" in front to simulate it's stance going down the track
1)ad caster to help the car go/stay straight
2)sit in the car during the alignment so it can be done with your body weight on the chassis
3)do the alignment with the car raised 2" in front to simulate it's stance going down the track
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests