Diagonal bar vs wishbone??

[DOTracer]

X-link.......

BINGO!!!

That's how we do ours, but try and keep the X-link pivots (rod ends) on the same bolt as the lower 4 link bars.

[bracketracer]

BINGO!!!

That's how we do ours, but try and keep the X-link pivots (rod ends) on the same bolt as the lower 4 link bars.[/quote]



OK I'll bite......Why????

[John_Heard]

I'm gonna guess so that the x bars will travel in the same arc as the lower 4 link bars. BUT since it's got a slip joint, does it matter?

[DOTracer]

I'm gonna guess so that the x bars will travel in the same arc as the lower 4 link bars. BUT since it's got a slip joint, does it matter?

That's one reason.

Another is that if the X-link is in a different hole, now you need two more bolts and spacers between the 4 link brackets, just more un-needed hardware. Also, if you keep the X-link one hole up from the 4 link bar and you wish to make a 4 link change, you now have to move both the 4 link bars and the X-link.

it's just easier and simpler to use the same bolt hole/pivot.

Also, we all know racers might tend to neglect the cleaning and lubing of the slide mechanism, so keeping on the same bolt hole reduces the chance of binding & wear from lack of cleaning and lubrication.

[CDR Performance]

X-link.......

Nice set-up! You have to do something like the above pic once you start making the nice hp.

[Mike Peters]

Just a thought but, what about the possibility of welding the x-brace to the lower suspension links to eliminate even more deflection and body roll? Pro Mods were using a swingarm suspension (imagine ladder bars with welded bracing spanning between keeping them on the same plane).

[bracketracer]

Just a thought but, what about the possibility of welding the x-brace to the lower suspension links to eliminate even more deflection and body roll? Pro Mods were using a swingarm suspension (imagine ladder bars with welded bracing spanning between keeping them on the same plane).

Sounds like a good idea Mike..Have any pictures of what the "Pro Mods" are using now???

As for keeping the X-link in the same plane as the lower link bars I don't think it makes much difference as the Rear moves the X-link separates. As long as it moves there is no binding...

[wikd69]

35 views and no comments??

I did search for the info and didn't come up with much. Maybe I should have asked which would be better for a race only application, diagonal bar or wishbone track locator?

I'm not running anything near the kind of horsepower most of the others here have but this is what I ended up doing with my ladder bar setup. The car originally had a panhard bar but I pulled it out and installed the diagonal bar you see in the pix.

This is the heavy diagonal bar from Alstons. The one they had listed as appropriate for ProStreet looked too puny - this is the heavier 4-bar item. I also bought the additional Alston knuckle joints and combined them with solid bronze bushings I picked up at my local Ace Hardware (of all places) and ended up with a pretty heavy duty diagonal locator.

The locator actually runs opposite to this in the car - I had it swapped here in this mock-up.

[ojh]

Overdrv, if you are doing a traditional backhalf stick to the traditional stuff ie a diagonal link. They are hard to improve upon and very simple to construct. The exotics take a higher skill level to build as they are very precise devices and you might want to stay away from them for now. You didn't say if you were doing a 4 link or a ladderbar nor how much horsepower and what class you want to compete in, those factors are very important.
Wikd69, if that is a panhard bar attachment shown in the photo you aren't going to use it with the diagonal link are you? Bad juju if you do. Things'll bind up and likely break a hiem end or something if you drive it on the street. You'd use either/or panhard bar or diagonal link, not both ok?
Good luck guys, and Overdrv post some pics of your build - lots of smart people here to help you out, later oj

[wikd69]

Overdrv, if you are doing a traditional backhalf stick to the traditional stuff ie a diagonal link. They are hard to improve upon and very simple to construct. The exotics take a higher skill level to build as they are very precise devices and you might want to stay away from them for now. You didn't say if you were doing a 4 link or a ladderbar nor how much horsepower and what class you want to compete in, those factors are very important.
Wikd69, if that is a panhard bar attachment shown in the photo you aren't going to use it with the diagonal link are you? Bad juju if you do. Things'll bind up and likely break a hiem end or something if you drive it on the street. You'd use either/or panhard bar or diagonal link, not both ok?
Good luck guys, and Overdrv post some pics of your build - lots of smart people here to help you out, later oj

Yep, that's a panhard bar mounting bracket on top of the housing and nope, I'm not using it. As someone else stated I didn't like the way it shift the body/frame in relating to the housing during operation - thats the reason I went to the diagonal locator.

[bracketracer]

If I were you I would keep a good eye on them as there a weak point in your set up. I have seen them pull apart

[tigwelder]

on that ladder bar set up, I would strongly recommend that you put the threaded adjusters in the rear end of the bars, they sell for about $25. a pair and take a left hand 3/4 tap. this will make setting the preload (or bite) really simple. I don't install ladder bars without them. It will be easy to adjust the pinion angle also when you change front bar location too. the diagonal link is a perfect way to go. looks good, do you need a 4.56 pro gear for that dana ? got one for sale. later