installing subframe connectors

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chevy art
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:19 pm

installing subframe connectors

#1 Post by chevy art » Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:53 am

going to install homemade subframe connectors in my 75 vega. have a nice way to do it. only question is should i install and weld them in with the motor and tranny in the car or while the engine and tranny is out of the car. could you please explain why it should be done the way you are recommending and what would happen if i did it the opposite way which you are suggesting thanks chevy art

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invegarating
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Location: southern Ohio

Re: installing subframe connectors

#2 Post by invegarating » Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:48 am

I think for frame connectors that i would put them in with the drivetrain in the car,as any stress that the drivetrain adds to the chassis is "normal" for it.I would level the body front to back and side to side with it on jackstands,i would not put them in with the car sitting on a lift where it is resting on its suspension,put the jackstands under the jacking points of the car that way the body is flat and normal when it is tied togther.

Now I have a question for you,what are you going to weld the connector to in the rear,unless your Vega is different from mine or my memory is no good there is not much as far as structure in the rear of a vega to weld a "frame" member to,I think you would be better served with a 6-point rollbar to tie your vega togther

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supernova
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Location: Ft.Worth Tx

Re: installing subframe connectors

#3 Post by supernova » Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:38 pm

I built my own out of 2x3 sq tubing. they run through the floor board and weld to the rear frame rails.
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Blackhoodmafia!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

1972 Nova SS
572 C.I. BBC

Best to date: 1/8
et: 5.28
mph: 134
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supernova
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Re: installing subframe connectors

#4 Post by supernova » Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:40 pm

more.
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Blackhoodmafia!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

1972 Nova SS
572 C.I. BBC

Best to date: 1/8
et: 5.28
mph: 134
new wt. 3340 lbs

chevy art
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:19 pm

Re: installing subframe connectors

#5 Post by chevy art » Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:40 pm

thanks invegarating and supernova. my car is going to be a street car with a real healthy 408 cube sbc(about 540 hp) ford 9 inch and turbo 350 trans. i dont want a cage in the car and i dont want to cut through the floors so i will use the 1x3 (.125 wall) rectangular steel (aprox 6 feel long) and go from front by front lower control arms and weld them in there and onto the flat jacking pad in the front and continue towards rear and weld it to rear jack pad and then go to the stock lower control arms(rear) tabs and weld to those little tabs to strengthen the front of the stock control marm points, which are very weak). so i have spanned from front to rear with the one piece, angling and where necessary and trimming where necessary and adding a croooover piece in front near tranny crossmember and back just before the rear control arms. i feel this cross brace is necessary to tie everything together, and i will run outriggers from connectors tot the front and rear wells where your feet are and sandwich them in on top and bottomw with 1/4 inch plates this will really stiffen up ,the entore car and be very low profile so it wont show too much by rocker panels. . i still feel the best way to weld them in is on complete level ground sitting on all 4 tires WITHOUT motor and tranny. i am really going to have to think that part out as people think just the opposit from what i think would be the right way. still would like pros and cons on best way to install them thanks art

sc racing
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Location: Sahuartia Az

Re: installing subframe connectors

#6 Post by sc racing » Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:06 am

If you going to use 1x3 with the 3" laying flat your wasting your time it WILL flex and twist the only way to do it is standing the 1x3 up but that wont fit under the car without sectioning the floor.2x2 or even 1x2 would be a better choice than the way your going to do it with the 1x3.

bert
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Location: Sacramento CA

Re: installing subframe connectors

#7 Post by bert » Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:55 pm

X2 :!:
[youtube]pWMP4iSIAhk[youtube]

chevy art
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Re: installing subframe connectors

#8 Post by chevy art » Mon Mar 08, 2010 7:47 pm

you both may be completely right about the flexing part. i will check with a chassis shop near me. guy is a friend and has built NHRA certified chassis for about 35 years. i will let you know what he says. if it is indeed too weak (1x3) then i will check into using next size uo(hopefully 1.5 x 3). i can always go to 1 5/8 tube for the job. i know that global west makes subfrome connectopr for this size and shape metal and it works well. if i use this stuff my friend has a tube notcher and bender for this steel tubing. thanks guys i will keep you posted. PS what do you think about using the round tubing. it is strong and still will be low profile at that diameter. thanks art

waterdog
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Re: installing subframe connectors

#9 Post by waterdog » Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:45 pm

I like the idea of the round tubing for connectors, you could run them inside the car. I know you don't want a bar,but it would really help stop flexing. I had a 73 Vega wagon back in the day and had alot of fun with it, that poor sucker started twisting so bad the int. light would come on at the hit. I also started having problems with the rear control arms and didn't keep it much longer. Walt
1970 Nova SS 3580lb, Shafiroff 434 na, 9.94@135.8

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invegarating
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Location: southern Ohio

Re: installing subframe connectors

#10 Post by invegarating » Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:54 am

I think the 1 5/8" tube is a much better idea but it looks like you are wanting to use the factory rear which has axles about the size of a quarter in the spline area which will probably not last long and the torque arm will break the tranny case if that is not changed also....remember a Vega only had about 80 hp from the factory so that is what the chassis was built to handle.
I just talked to a guy about doing a chassis for him in a 00 camaro, which has the same rear suspension,he is running 10.20's and his tranny mount only lasts about 5 passes he said,so if you plan to stay with that suspension I would beef up the tranny tunnel and move the torque arm to it instead of the back of the tranny

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