Master cylinder question
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Re: Master cylinder question
Digging up this old thread instead of starting a new one.
Finally got around to the brakes on my 69 Nova and I have a question about the stock rear brake line. It appears to be larger than 3/16 and I was wondering if anyone knew what fitting is needed to adapt the stock rear line to the Chrysler M/C being mentioned in this thread. Also, should the rear brake line go to the rear port on the M/C?
Thanks Todd
Finally got around to the brakes on my 69 Nova and I have a question about the stock rear brake line. It appears to be larger than 3/16 and I was wondering if anyone knew what fitting is needed to adapt the stock rear line to the Chrysler M/C being mentioned in this thread. Also, should the rear brake line go to the rear port on the M/C?
Thanks Todd
Re: Master cylinder question
The line does go to the rear port but its best to change the entire line to 3/16".
Re: Master cylinder question
Ok thanks for the info. Whats the reason for changing the line size?sc racing wrote:The line does go to the rear port but its best to change the entire line to 3/16".
Re: Master cylinder question
Smaller line will give more pressure at the caliper ( or wheel cylinder). You dont have to change it but if you were redoing all the lines put the 3/16 in.
Re: Master cylinder question
good to know, thanks.
- Bruce69Camaro
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Re: Master cylinder question
Just to through in my .02, but like SC said, I ran all new 3/16", and at the rear I then ran a section of #3 braided line to a "T" on the rear and then some more braided #3 to each wheel cylinder.
A lot easier to do this then mess with making steel lines.
I also ran small sections of #3 to each caplier up front as well.
Bruce
A lot easier to do this then mess with making steel lines.
I also ran small sections of #3 to each caplier up front as well.
Bruce
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
Re: Master cylinder question
Thanks Bruce. I just placed my brake hardware order yesterday with all the things you mentioned.Bruce69Camaro wrote:Just to through in my .02, but like SC said, I ran all new 3/16", and at the rear I then ran a section of #3 braided line to a "T" on the rear and then some more braided #3 to each wheel cylinder.
A lot easier to do this then mess with making steel lines.
I also ran small sections of #3 to each caplier up front as well.
Bruce
I am wondering if a line lock is necessary for the amateur once in while drag racer? I will be using drag radials.
- Bruce69Camaro
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Re: Master cylinder question
Look at it this way, if you think you might use it, put one in now while your doing things, if you don't want to use it, you don't have too but at least it's there and ready.
I plumbed in mine but haven't hooked it up to a switch yet.
I'm not even sure if I'm going to use mine either??
Bruce
I plumbed in mine but haven't hooked it up to a switch yet.
I'm not even sure if I'm going to use mine either??
Bruce
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
Re: Master cylinder question
X2Bruce69Camaro wrote:Look at it this way, if you think you might use it, put one in now while your doing things, if you don't want to use it, you don't have too but at least it's there and ready.
I plumbed in mine but haven't hooked it up to a switch yet.
I'm not even sure if I'm going to use mine either??
Bruce
Bruce you will use it.
Re: Master cylinder question
Ok thanks for the input. Is there any difference between the 120 dollar Hurst roll control and the 65 dollar Summit brand that looks identical?
Re: Master cylinder question
I dont know what the Summit brand is but the Hurst is rebuildable. I bought a Biondo one for $35 and the Hurst switch for $18 its not like you put thousands of miles on it.496blazer wrote:Ok thanks for the input. Is there any difference between the 120 dollar Hurst roll control and the 65 dollar Summit brand that looks identical?
Re: Master cylinder question
Hi guys, don't want to start a new thread so I'm bringing this one back up.
I have adapted the dodge mc to work in the nova. My question is, it comes with a new rod but the stock rod seems fine. I know what kind of havoc the wrong rod can cause, so I'm looking for knowledge on how to determine the right length.
Also, did you use the stock pushrod with you dodge mcs?
I have adapted the dodge mc to work in the nova. My question is, it comes with a new rod but the stock rod seems fine. I know what kind of havoc the wrong rod can cause, so I'm looking for knowledge on how to determine the right length.
Also, did you use the stock pushrod with you dodge mcs?
Re: Master cylinder question
For the manual m/c the rod will need to be placed in the upper pivot hole on the pedal assembly. Regardless of what rod you use you want to make sure there is a little free play so that there is no preload on the m/c. You also want to make sure the rod will not fall out due to it being too loose.71 chevy wrote:Hi guys, don't want to start a new thread so I'm bringing this one back up.
I have adapted the dodge mc to work in the nova. My question is, it comes with a new rod but the stock rod seems fine. I know what kind of havoc the wrong rod can cause, so I'm looking for knowledge on how to determine the right length.
Also, did you use the stock pushrod with you dodge mcs?
- John_Heard
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Re: Master cylinder question
I'd highly recommend making a pushrod retainer so that the pushrod can not drop out of the m/c. They are not hard to make, just a piece of aluminum flat stock with a hole in it bolted to the firewall will do the trick.
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