wilwood master

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jaspermaggie
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Location: Plano Texas

wilwood master

#1 Post by jaspermaggie » Mon Apr 26, 2010 7:10 pm

I have a 1" mast and would like to change to a 7/8 wilwood. I have 4 single disk. With the 1" it is hard and has hardly any movement. What do you think of the wilwood?
My car is not as fast as I think it is.

ojh
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:39 pm

Re: wilwood master

#2 Post by ojh » Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:00 am

I am not sure what you mean by 4 single disc. Your problem description and how you intend to fix it sounds ok, you piston sounds too large. As far as wilwood goes, good stuff and reliable, just be certain you get a dual bowl as many of the wilwood are single bowl. I have seen a lot of cars with the single bowl on them and that is dangerous, i don't think they realize just what they've done. When i use wilwood i gang them up so that i have seperate front and rear master cyls, size them accordingly and then i have seperate systems which makes it way easier to bleed, trouble shoot and maintain.

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John_Heard
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Re: wilwood master

#3 Post by John_Heard » Tue Apr 27, 2010 2:27 pm

Before you go changing M/C - have you looked to see if you can change the location on the brake pedal yet to get more leverage (closer to the pivot point) ? It will increase both pressure and travel

jcdrags
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:50 pm

Re: wilwood master

#4 Post by jcdrags » Sat May 01, 2010 1:43 pm

The brake pedal (aftermarket)in my chassis car is not aligned properly. The push rod that is aftermarket is approximately 8" long and 1" in diameter it is aluminum and has a clevis at one end and is tapped for the pushrod on the other end, the problem is that it is at a slight angle(3/4") and I am concerned about piston drag. The car was like this when I bought it and it was run for several years like this, ,but it bothers me.
I was wondering if I could take the brake pedal tab out of the clevis and bolt it together like that or would it not be safe, If I could put the aluminum rod up against the brake pedal tab and bolt it together it would almost level the rod out.

sc racing
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

Re: wilwood master

#5 Post by sc racing » Sun May 02, 2010 9:00 am

jcdrags wrote:The brake pedal (aftermarket)in my chassis car is not aligned properly. The push rod that is aftermarket is approximately 8" long and 1" in diameter it is aluminum and has a clevis at one end and is tapped for the pushrod on the other end, the problem is that it is at a slight angle(3/4") and I am concerned about piston drag. The car was like this when I bought it and it was run for several years like this, ,but it bothers me.
I was wondering if I could take the brake pedal tab out of the clevis and bolt it together like that or would it not be safe, If I could put the aluminum rod up against the brake pedal tab and bolt it together it would almost level the rod out.
Is it on an angle side to side or up and down? Most are not perfectly level up and down. Not sure what you mean by "pedal tab" can you post some pics?

jcdrags
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:50 pm

Re: wilwood master

#6 Post by jcdrags » Sun May 02, 2010 10:56 am

It is on a side to side angle, height seems to be fine,,, what I mean by brake tab is the tab on the bottom of the aftermarket brake pedal where the clevis is attached to....

sc racing
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Location: Sahuartia Az

Re: wilwood master

#7 Post by sc racing » Sun May 02, 2010 7:19 pm

jcdrags wrote:It is on a side to side angle, height seems to be fine,,, what I mean by brake tab is the tab on the bottom of the aftermarket brake pedal where the clevis is attached to....
Can you weld a tab on the side to make the rod straight and still use the clevis?

jcdrags
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:50 pm

Re: wilwood master

#8 Post by jcdrags » Sun May 02, 2010 11:42 pm

Not sure if I can weld on it, it is chrome plated ,not sure about contamination and getting a good weld...If I take the pedal tab out of the clevis and mount the pedal tab along the side of the clevis I could probably be good , but not sure about strength of rod without the clevis taking up the empty space on the adjusting rod....

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