brake setup plumbing

[rich]

looking for the best way to plumb my brakes wilwood frt strange rear brakes strut frt end 14x 32 rear tires
strange 1.25 bore master cyl
will be transbrake power glide
bbc 540 plus
do i need a line lock?
adjustable proportioning valve?
looking at 3/16 stainless steel line and an-3 37degree fittings
any ideas etc before i start?

[John_Heard]

do i need a line lock?

Depends on how you like to do your burnouts. If you roll through like a dragster, then no, you don't need a line lock. If you're used to doing typical door car burnout, then yeah, might be handy.

adjustable proportioning valve?

Note a bad idea, put it in the front if you want to run one. Many people don't, but you'll probably find the fronts will lock way before those big rear tires will.

looking at 3/16 stainless steel line and an-3 37degree fittings

Stainless is a bitch to work with, but not so bad if you're doing AN flare instead of double flare. Looks nice, but not sure if it's worth the extra effort. Steel is much easier to work with. 3/16 is the right size to use.

any ideas etc before i start?

On my car I didn't run any brake lines on the rear end, they drop from above to the caliper. Helps avoid smashing a line if when tieing the car down, and you can pull the rear end without undoing the brake lines.

Don't worry about which end of the master to plumb to, they both have the same pressure.

[rich]

thanks pretty much what i was thinking

[bracketracer]

Strange master cyd.........Bad idea send it back it will leak sooner or later....
Also disc front and rear you will want a 1 1/32 bore M/C

[71 chevy]

just fyi i used the summit 37 degree tool to do abt half my brake system and it worked well no leaks. not bad for $30.

for the single flare 45 degree stuff i used a $25 tool from amazon. i think the kit i bought was from skinny kid? an3 and 3/16 hard line