Bypass regulator?

General Engine Discussion

Moderator: John_Heard

Post Reply
Message
Author
sc racing
Posts: 1773
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

Bypass regulator?

#1 Post by sc racing » Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:49 am

Do I need a bypass type regulator if Im just running N/A. The current setup is 2 pumps into 1 line out into 2 regulators non return type.Ive always had inconsistant pressure would a return regulator solve this?Which one should I get?
Attachments
IMG_1959 (Medium).JPG

User avatar
John_Heard
Site Admin
Posts: 5734
Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:20 am
Location: Resume Speed, Kansas
Contact:

#2 Post by John_Heard » Sun Jan 21, 2007 12:31 pm

Why do you have two regulators? Setup like that I'm not sure which one would be the one to adjust. Is this a single carb setup?

sc racing
Posts: 1773
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

#3 Post by sc racing » Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:59 pm

You have to adjust both of them each one a small turn at a time. There used to be a blown big block with 2 1050's in this car thats why there are 2.Im only going to use 1 carb.I just dont know if I should leave it or get a single return type.

User avatar
John_Heard
Site Admin
Posts: 5734
Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:20 am
Location: Resume Speed, Kansas
Contact:

#4 Post by John_Heard » Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:13 pm

I'm just using one 803 regulator for the carb on mine, seems to work fine. It is on a contant bypass for the main feed line, but I used to have it deadheaded and motor only was fine.

sc racing
Posts: 1773
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

#5 Post by sc racing » Sun Jan 21, 2007 6:40 pm

Thanks John Ill keep it the way it is and save some $$$$

Wayne Carroll
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:09 am

sc racing Fuel Regulators

#6 Post by Wayne Carroll » Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:13 am

Never join your Holley 110GPH regulators with a union fitting between the two. That is a boo boo. To solve this problem, remove the union and plug the outlet line not going to the fuel bowl with a plug or a pressure gauge for each regulator going to each bowl.

As an option, you could run both outlets at each regulator to a "Y" and a single line to each fuel bowl. I assume you have a 4bbl carburetor - if you have 2x4bbl carbs on a tunnel ram, etc. then plumb your 660's or 750's, etc. to each individual bowl of each carburetor. That's OK, too although the 660's must be modified to have individual fuel outlets for each fuel bowl instead of the transfer tube and single outlet.

I hope this helps, I'm only sounding like I know what the heck I'm talking about, because I have been through this before. Good Luck, mount your regultors close to your carburetors and think about a pressure spring from Moroso to up the pressure coming off your pumps.

sc racing
Posts: 1773
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

#7 Post by sc racing » Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:12 pm

Why cant they be joined we been running them like this for over 15 years. Im not saying your wrong just want to know the reason.Is it because the 2 connected outlets are flowing into each other instead of to the carb and causing a restriction?

sc racing
Posts: 1773
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

#8 Post by sc racing » Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:40 pm

Heres another question,have any of you rebuilt a holley blue pump? I bought 2 check valve kits and 2 rotor and vane kits,I rebuilt one pump then was going to do the other when I decided to read the paperwork.It tells you never replace the rotor or vanes because its matched to the base of the pump and damage to the pump will occur. WHY DO THEY SELL THE ROTOR AND VANE KITS !!!!!!!!!!!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests