SBC "DISCOUNT" PARTS????

[nothingfancy]

Ok, some thoughts on engine componets. I am finding out that nearly all speed equipment is imported ( oh jeez, what has happened to us ). I have been looking on Ebay at engine parts and have some questions?
1. 434 cu in sbc kits, Eagle or Scat crank kits? These kits range from about 1300-1800$. What questions should I be asking the seller? I have heard some say that the Scat cranks are better but have yet to speak with someone who has actually used one or the other?

2. I see a lot of Procomp parts for sale which come from down under, the claim is that their rockers are more or less the same a set of Crane rockers? At half the cost, I find this hard to believe? Anyone with experience with these parts?

3. Same thing with stainless valves, tempting at half the cost of a set of Manley's, are they worth buying, or trouble waiting to happen?

I know that a lot of you guys are racing heads up which is fine, but I'm putting together a bracket car with some goals to achieve;
1. consistant
2. reliable and trouble free
3. 10.90"s without running the engine into the ground on every pass.

With this in mind, I don't want to put together a grenade. Any thoughts will be apreciated on using any of these "discount" parts.

[jmarkaudio]

Eagle and Scat are OK, but for a budget look at the Howard cranks and rods or Callies Compstar. Steer clear of the Pro Comp stuff, made in China despite what you see. Bad stuff. As far as valves, Ferrea makes a great product and is priced lower than Manley. My new SB2.2 heads will have Ferrea Titanium valves, I also ran their stainless valves on my 400. Do not sacrifice quality for cost, you will regret it. I've been there. It will cost more in broken parts. Cam depends on the weight of the car, you can get a lighter car in the 10's with a flat tappet, but much easier with a roller. What heads?

Crank: http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... =SAO213-CS
Rods: http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... 000CS2A2AH
Pistons depend on the heads and compression desired, here is a sample: http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... er=HRC4580
Valves: http://www.flatlanderracing.com/ferrea6000_sbc1132.html

[rich]

Eagle and Scat are OK, but for a budget look at the Howard cranks and rods or Callies Compstar. Steer clear of the Pro Comp stuff, made in China despite what you see. Bad stuff. As far as valves, Ferrea makes a great product and is priced lower than Manley. My new SB2.2 heads will have Ferrea Titanium valves, I also ran their stainless valves on my 400. Do not sacrifice quality for cost, you will regret it. I've been there. It will cost more in broken parts. Cam depends on the weight of the car, you can get a lighter car in the 10's with a flat tappet, but much easier with a roller. What heads?

Crank: http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... =SAO213-CS
Rods: http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... 000CS2A2AH
Pistons depend on the heads and compression desired, here is a sample: http://www.competitionproducts.com/prod ... er=HRC4580
Valves: http://www.flatlanderracing.com/ferrea6000_sbc1132.html

this is the reason my car isn't finished trying to buy USA don't want the china stuff on my ride just my .02 rich

[bigdee183]

I bought a procomp fuel pump off of ebay (equal to holley black) and it lasted about 2 street curises and about 4 passes down the track. It started to drag after if warmed up fuel pressure would drop to 0. Had to go buy the real deal. Should have bought holley to begin with. Could have saved money in the begining.

D

[sc racing]

"10.90's without running the engine into the ground every pass"
you dont need a 434" unless your car is really heavy or your track is really slow.
my old setup was 3000lb car 355 cu in cast stock crank $200 eagle rods 12.5:1 trw pistons solid .525-.548 254* 259* flat solid lifter gm bowtie iron heads th350 4.56 gear ran 10.90@123 at a good track.
If you go 434" you will need GOOD heads not some out of the box stuff , stay 406" or close and buy some GOOD heads.Go with Scat or Eagle no Pro Comp chinacrapaneessee junk

[nothingfancy]

Hey guys, thanks for the imput. You've confirmed my concerns with thses import companies. Why a 434? I'm just thinking, if I'm going to buy new pistons, rods, and crank, why not max it out? Yes, it is a heavy car, an all steel 57 chev with a full cage, dana 60 + me, I'm not the thin, half starved 220 pounds I used to be. As far as heads are concerned, I've got a new (been on the shelf for 20 years) set of bowtie heads that have been ported out by Diamond racing. I did speak with and engine builder that works for Lunati cams and his thoughts were that the heads would be a decent fit for a small block of this size. I agree, probablly not the best heads out there, but for now it's what I've got to work with. My thought are, spend a year running 10.90"s getting the car sorted out and back in the loop and then come out the next year, add some fiberglass and alluminum, step on it a little and try my hand at 9.90 pro gas? Alway have been a fan of the flat tappit cam. but am considering a roller for this engine.

[sc racing]

Do you have a stock block or aftermarket? Just my opinion but a 4" crank in a stock block is not a good idea, lots of grinding the pan rails & bottom of the bores. Need to clearance rods so it wont hit the cam etc etc .I know what you mean with buying parts 3.75", 3.875", 4.00", cranks and 5.7",6.00," rods all cost the same but big block parts are also in that price range. If you are building this based on the heads you have I would sell them and get some better ones if you still want the 434" or build a 496" bbc. You can make 700-750 hp easy with a bbc and run 10.90's with some plug wires off .Again just my opinion

[nothingfancy]

You're right about the big block, lot of cheap hp there. I had given some thought to a 454 but between the drag racers, truck pullers, and mud boggers in my area, you can't pick one up for much less than 500$. I've already got a fair set of heads, a Lingenfelter strip dominator, headers, oil pan, valve covers and stuff, plus 3 or 4 400's sitting out in the barn, I figured that the 500$ could go a long way towards putting together a 400+ cu in small block instead of starting completly over with the big block. With the economy the way it is, I stopped into a swap meet a few weeks ago and most people were carting stuff back home because nobody had any money to spend. So with this in mind, I'm not going to try to sell stuff in hopes of starting over a big chev. But who knows what the future may hold in a couple of years?

[sc racing]

I guess if you have all those parts already the 400 is the way to go but I still would not do a 4" crank. I had a 3.875" stroke with stock block had to grind WAY into the rails and bottom of the bores to clear also had to get a small base circle cam with a set of Oliver offset stroker rods. That would be the biggest I would ever go if using the stock block.Had some 220cc AFR CNC heads on that motor and they were still way too small.

[bracketracer]

Check tjis guy out !!! he has some real good prices and stands behind what he sells...

http://www.richmarkovic.com/ronowenswebsite/