aluminum rods

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krazyhorse1
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aluminum rods

#1 Post by krazyhorse1 » Tue May 18, 2010 10:23 pm

all right heres my question is it possible to put aluminum rods in a stock chevy big block short deck block with a 4.25 stroke crank. the rods will be 6.385. i hope its possible im wanting to run a lot of nitrous. thanks all.

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supernova
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Re: aluminum rods

#2 Post by supernova » Wed May 19, 2010 7:31 pm

I'd put steel rods in it and be done with it..... Aluminum rods have to be changed to often and the cost of that is for the rich and famous......
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wikd69
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Re: aluminum rods

#3 Post by wikd69 » Wed May 19, 2010 8:35 pm

I've got a buddy running aluminum rods in his motor and the damn thing won't come up to the proper compression until it gets to the right temperature.

I gather the alum rods grow at temperature, thereby raising your compression.

Too weird for me.
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krazyhorse1
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Re: aluminum rods

#4 Post by krazyhorse1 » Wed May 19, 2010 9:44 pm

im not so worried about the price it will only run 200 foot at a time. its going in a mud racer that needs to instantly rev with full power to get instant tire speed. the class i plan to run does not allow a trans brake. oh add im going to spray a 400 shot right at the drop of the throttle so i need a cushion. thats the reason for the aluminum rods but i want a 496 so i can get a little more. heres the catch is im running up against other trucks with upwards of 700 cubic inches. ill be an under dog but the truck will be set up better then theres i have a secret weapon. hey doesnt john heard run aluminum rods.

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Moparious Maximus
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Re: aluminum rods

#5 Post by Moparious Maximus » Thu May 20, 2010 8:45 am

Dont be scared of aluminium rods, I've run them for years without one breaking.

A good billet rod is better than a forged one in my opinion, but we've run both and never had a problem with either.

There are two things that will kill one, not enough bearing clearance and cold oil.

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krazyhorse1
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Re: aluminum rods

#6 Post by krazyhorse1 » Thu May 20, 2010 3:21 pm

cool sounds good but can you build a 496 with a stock block and aluminum rods

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Re: aluminum rods

#7 Post by 79 Camaro » Fri May 21, 2010 1:52 pm

krazyhorse1 wrote:cool sounds good but can you build a 496 with a stock block and aluminum rods
Yes you can! You will just have to notch the block for clearance. no big deal there.
that is the same stroke and rod combo i have in my 496

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Re: aluminum rods

#8 Post by Mike Peters » Fri May 21, 2010 1:57 pm

Moparious Maximus wrote: A good billet rod is better than a forged one in my opinion,
Not trying to start anything but, this is an on-going debate and wondered why you would prefer billet over forged? Forged camp is always saying the grain structure is superior.
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krazyhorse1
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Re: aluminum rods

#9 Post by krazyhorse1 » Fri May 21, 2010 2:56 pm

thanks all. i dont know a lot about it but my thoughts are is if a steel rods bends it usually breaks and bye bye everything. with an aluminum rod you have some give and i need something that is forgiving.

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Re: aluminum rods

#10 Post by supernova » Fri May 21, 2010 5:03 pm

krazyhorse1 wrote:thanks all. i dont know a lot about it but my thoughts are is if a steel rods bends it usually breaks and bye bye everything. with an aluminum rod you have some give and i need something that is forgiving.
Oh man! How much power are you planning on making?
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Best to date: 1/8
et: 5.28
mph: 134
new wt. 3340 lbs

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krazyhorse1
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Re: aluminum rods

#11 Post by krazyhorse1 » Sun May 23, 2010 9:56 am

well supernova im not really sure but i do know i will be pushing the limits of the block for sure but im on an extreme budget. i just really dont like things to break. if it bends i have a chance of saving some of the stuff. the last time i broke a rod at 8000 everything went with it. i spent all the reall money for this season on the building of the truck. it is set up for about 2000 horsepower but that horse power will have to wait about to seasons but i dont wana go out there and not be competative.

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Re: aluminum rods

#12 Post by Hitchcock » Sun May 23, 2010 3:55 pm

krazyhorse1 wrote:well supernova im not really sure but i do know i will be pushing the limits of the block for sure but im on an extreme budget. i just really dont like things to break. if it bends i have a chance of saving some of the stuff. the last time i broke a rod at 8000 everything went with it. i spent all the reall money for this season on the building of the truck. it is set up for about 2000 horsepower but that horse power will have to wait about to seasons but i dont wana go out there and not be competative.

I think at that power level on nitrous you should run aluminum rods. But if its a stock block deal and your rods hold up, the block itself will desintegrate.
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supernova
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Re: aluminum rods

#13 Post by supernova » Sun May 23, 2010 6:37 pm

krazyhorse1 wrote:well supernova im not really sure but i do know i will be pushing the limits of the block for sure but im on an extreme budget. i just really dont like things to break. if it bends i have a chance of saving some of the stuff. the last time i broke a rod at 8000 everything went with it. i spent all the reall money for this season on the building of the truck. it is set up for about 2000 horsepower but that horse power will have to wait about to seasons but i dont wana go out there and not be competative.
First off, 8000 rpm's is hard on everything even alu. rods. An extreme budget but run a stock block? My stock block motor on a 350 shot of notrous should make around 1150 to 1200 hp. At this level the block won't last long. It doesn't mater what rods your running, it's the webbing in the bottom end of the block you have to worry about.....
I have $1,500.00 in my stock block thank goodness I can only run a 250 shot of nitrous per class rules. That might help my block last long enough to get a good block. Class rules when I built my motor was factory tall deck block only. Now I can have an after market block and will put one together before the yrs up......

Now then, No matter what you do with your "stock" block (believe me, I have everything you can possible do to one) your limited to about 1100-1200 hp max and that is it and may not last long at that.... If you need more power than that on your "extreme budget" I would consider buying a much better block.......
Your concerned about breaking rods and not the block.....Hmmmmm ok good luck with that........
Blackhoodmafia!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

1972 Nova SS
572 C.I. BBC

Best to date: 1/8
et: 5.28
mph: 134
new wt. 3340 lbs

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krazyhorse1
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Re: aluminum rods

#14 Post by krazyhorse1 » Mon May 24, 2010 3:47 pm

my extreme buget goes to the down side of extreme as in really cheap. i have thought about the block. the reason i am worried about the other parts is next year i am going to a 540 with after market block then i can use most all my old parts.

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supernova
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Re: aluminum rods

#15 Post by supernova » Mon May 24, 2010 4:44 pm

krazyhorse1 wrote:my extreme buget goes to the down side of extreme as in really cheap. i have thought about the block. the reason i am worried about the other parts is next year i am going to a 540 with after market block then i can use most all my old parts.
Oh! Why didn't you say opposite of extreme, I'm thinking endless money supply..... In that case I guess nothing changes with the block. It's still limited.

You know going from a 496 to a 540 that your pistons will have to change and therefore the rotating assy. will have to be rebalanced. A 540 takes a bigger bore with a 4.250 storke.

Get the better block and go ahead and build the 540 now. You'll be happy're in the long run. I wished I had done that but class rules was what it was at the time....
Blackhoodmafia!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

1972 Nova SS
572 C.I. BBC

Best to date: 1/8
et: 5.28
mph: 134
new wt. 3340 lbs

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