Bottle Valve question

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cj1275
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Bottle Valve question

#1 Post by cj1275 » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:29 pm

I have 3 "yellow" 10lb Nitrous Works bottles with stock 90* valves on them. And 1 10lb NOS bottle with a 90* Hi Flow valve on it.
My question is what is the hp limit they will support on a single stage fogger setup? I had people tell me the standard valves are good up to 200hp. with no problems. Does anybody with experience know for sure? :?:

ProCar
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Re: Bottle Valve question

#2 Post by ProCar » Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:17 pm

I have flowed large single fogger systems utilizing jets as large as 46 and up, through an entire race car, bottle through nozzle. The NOS 'hi flow' the 90 degree NX, and the NOS 90 degree made NO DIFFERENCE in the context of the complete, working system. The fittings, distribution blocks, filters and solenoids did matter. Now, the old cheezy brass 90 degree bottles in the real cheap kits I don't know about. 90% of what you hear and read in n20 advertising is only marketing. There is no magic, there are no super secrets, no matter if it is in an ad or a puff piece in a mag. It's in the knowledge and tuning sense you bring to the table.

The only really differences at the high end use (3 to 4 kits) is how they aim the nitrous, in a softer pattern or more directional. A nitrous company that sponsored me at one time came up with a type of nozzle to consumer demand. On their flow bench, their original design that was essentially 'borrowed' from another company in the late eighties made no difference. The blah blah about siphoning have been disproved by an ADRL tuner I respect. Marketing. Like Fram filters, Splitfire plugs, etc.

cj1275
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Re: Bottle Valve question

#3 Post by cj1275 » Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:19 am

Thats good to hear, I can save alot of $ just sticking with what I have. Alot of guys are telling me I have to swap the stock valves to the new "trick ones" I can put that $ towards something that will make a difference.

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John_Heard
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Re: Bottle Valve question

#4 Post by John_Heard » Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:32 pm

I'm not sure exactly what valve you have but 200 should not be an issue at all. One of my old bottles was the old style valve and it moved 400 shot with no difference between it and the Super High Flow valves that I noticed, the only reason I got rid of it was it didn't have a place to put a regular style burst disc valve in it. I'd imagine at some point they (the lower flow valves) would have more pressure drop than the Super High Flow models.

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Re: Bottle Valve question

#5 Post by ProCar » Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:35 pm

John, believe it or not, we would cross the finish line at the same pressure- changing starting line pressure, 12 lb carbon or 15 lb aluminum bottles, various valves, all with a (get this) 50 jet (our summer tune up) for Top Street. Like clockwork, it crossed at 733. Low huh? It still went 205-206 pretty regularly, albeit a little slower in the back than the front, but not much. It picked up 40 on the back side.

This wasn't to dispute or argue, just made me think. Sharin' war stories.

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Re: Bottle Valve question

#6 Post by John_Heard » Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:56 am

That's interesting, mine's never quite that repeatable. Just out of curosity what PSI did you guys leave at? 50 jet, now that's a good size shot!

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Re: Bottle Valve question

#7 Post by ProCar » Mon Feb 02, 2009 2:56 pm

I think I might be exaggerating juuuust a tad... But, it's a number I remember clearly. It was in the 730's an overwhelming amount.

We left at 1025-1050 high side best cast scenario. Typically it was 1000+ There was a pretty big drop when all that area opened up, it would recover, then run down, but when the solenoids closed, it shot right back up to about 900.

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Re: Bottle Valve question

#8 Post by John_Heard » Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:18 pm

That's a pretty good drop - Did you guys have to use a single bottle? Luckily we're running 1/8th now so overall drop isn't quite as bad as 1/4, but since we have to run a #4 line in the flow path it makes the flow path that much more critical.

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