DragStuff

This is how I set my rear end up.
What do ya think?

Super, What do you have for the lower shock mounts, hard to tell in the photos? I see the bar going across, but what are they mounted to? I'm assuming there is a piece of square tubing vertical just in front of the shock? I'm guessing those are homemade "Cal-trac" copies? The lower brackets look a little thin for their length, maybe a plate boxing the Two upright plates most of the way down? I'd be concerned with them twising. Just my Two cents, Lorne

The plates are 1/4" and they are very strong. I have already used them on a 1000 hp BBC.
Here is a better look at the set-up. And yes, my cal-trac is home made! Every peace on my rearend is home made. ( back brace, shock mounts, caliper brackets, I even nerrowed the Ford 9" my self. )

Nice work...

Nice work. The plates on the lower leaf spring clamping plates are pretty long, they should give plenty of leverage when the rear end tries to roll over. I think on mine the force transfer link sits a bit closer and more parallel to the leaf spring.

I was kinda thinking they needed a plate between them or boxing too, but if they work then good enuff. Looks good.

Did you make your lowering block? I've been wanting to try a 1" block on mine, just need some billet aluminum to make them out or, or buy them somewhere.

http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm

Scroll down to the EZ INCH.

1'' block (bolts to the leaf pack)

We use them for lift blocks in the 4x4 world but they would work well for a lowering block in this situation. They are made out of steel and have offset holes (1'', 1.5'') so the axle can be moved forward or back. Kurt at DIY4x.com is a fabricator and will produce anything you like so give him a call and i am sure he would do them in aluminum. You can have an angle milled in them too for pinion angle.

John_Heard wrote:Did you make your lowering block? I've been wanting to try a 1" block on mine, just need some billet aluminum to make them out or, or buy them somewhere.

Hey John,
I used a 1" x 2" billet aluminum bar stock cut 6" long. I drilled and taped in the center for a bolt with the same size head as the hole in the rearend housing mount so the the rearend would not slide. The hole that goes thru the block also gives the spring nub a place to go. The brackets are a tad longer because moving the rearend with the drop blocks will change the pivot point. I've used this set up on 2 other cars and it works great.
The plates are a lot more heavy duty then thay look. Here is a better pic. They realy are not as long as they look.

I'll have to track me down some chunks of aluminum and make me some of those one of these days.

Your plates look fine... I boxed mine in but used a little thinner material.

My next project is to try some aluminum bars that I bought that the heim ends go into. Not sure if they are up to the task or not. The circle track guys say they'll work, my buddys just snicker and say let me know how that works for ya LOL..

My bars are CM 1 1/8" OD CM rod ends

Ok, Now I see what you got for shock mounts. I like to see guys spend some time making parts when they can. To me, that's the hobby in it. The way I look at it, it all comes down to money. Even if a guy isn't the sharpest guy, in most cases....I did say MOST, with enough money thrown at something, it almost has to end up fast. "Oh I picked the wrong... (insert - cam, converter, gears, intake, ect. ect) I'll just buy a different one & when that doesn't work, I'll pay someone to make it fast". So continue making your parts & not spending all the bucks, guys like me are proud of you. Lookin' Good! Lorne

Very nice work.

Thank you wikd69,
I have the means to do just about anything, it's a pride thing with me. I have friends that through money at racing and can't understand why they don't win alot. I keep telling them that the money is no object thing is fine and dandy but knowing how to use the products that the money is spent on is the key. I know, spend enough money and you'll go fast. I think it's fun to beat the money spenders with less $$$ and go faster. It keeps them wondering, how is he doing that. I even build my own motors and have even beat some big name engine builders in the area for less money sent. I have about $8,000 total in my BBC and a bought engine with the same power rating would have been around $ 14,000 or more.

Yep, That's what I'm talking about!

Yeah. I love building stuff. My other racing buddies are hot on time slips and beating other guys on the track. I'm more focused on building and less on competing. I'm not really into the 'pretty' aspect of the build either, all the paint, chrome and polish, but I do like the end result to look good. I'm more into the engineering end of things. Thats why it took so long to finally make it to the track with the Camaro and even now I'm happy just collecting time-slips without going heads-up with somebody else at the lights. Thats why I really like seeing the sort of work you'd done to build your new rear suspension stuff. Laying down this sort of horsepower without breaking stuff and having it all work as designed is too cool for words

On the money side. I'm sure I spend more than I should, but lacking any way to fab stuff from scratch I end up having to buy a lot of expensive though simple parts. You know how that works. I've done a fair bit of welding and machine work in the past and twisted a lot of wrench in my early days. I'd love to have room in my little shop here for a full CNC mill and plasma table. I do computer stuff for a living now and would really enjoy combining that with machine work in my build evolutions. I have an air compressor, oxy-acetylene rig, stick welder, mig welder, plasma cutter, cutoff saw and drill press. I really don't have room for much beyond that, without expanding and taking over the other half of the garage here at the house. I'd kill to have a 60 by 40 shop with a full overhead hoist, dedicated paint booth, machine shop area, welding bay, etc., etc. I would probably live there

Maybe in my next lifetime.