Recomend a slick...

[BracketNova]

Ya the guys car that I did the interior for...his tires stayed up for the month I worked on it.

[hugger73hatch]

Use some slime....I had slicks leaking down in a week, put the slime in it and it has been sitting for 3 weeks and is just fine.

[BracketNova]

I'm kinda leanin towards a 30 x 10.5 tire. Does anyone know if these will fit with the stock wheel opening? I run 29's now and have two fingers between the opening and tire.

John, you had mentioned something about a stiff wall slick. Do I need stiff walls? I probably won't get much lighter than my current 3200 w/ me in.


If anybody knows anybody with some nice 30 X 10.5s used or whatnot please let me know...my budget is getting tighter by the day

[John_Heard]

A 30" slick will rub the lower front and lower rear of the qtr at high speed. You need about 1 1/2" of clearance minimum there as they grow quite a bit. 29.5 will require work also. A 28" won't grow enough to require modifying the fender.

Also check inside the wheelwell along the center line of the tire. You may find that it needs more clearance at the spot where the wheel tub connects to the trunk floor. It will grow more in the center than the edges as it sucks in, it gets bigger around.

[Craig W.]

I tried a 30x9 once on my car and about cut the tire down. It rubbed terribly in the lower front since it grew so much.

29x9 is a very tight fit on my car and the sidewalls rub some. 1/2" more backspacing would really help with that.

Just bolt on some 8.5s and let 'er eat!

[Mike Peters]

So, I can put the screws back in without using tubes? From the few scraps of info in all the dung being thrown around in the ed racer supernova throwdown...I thought it was said that if you screwed you had to tube. I just don't wanna put my car in the wall.

No, in fact it's the opposite - if you tube and don't screw, you're screwed. Ripping your little valve stem out is a possiblity in either situation but, much more probable if the slick isn't screwed to the wheel. Just an FYI - Rick Jones (QuarterMax, RJ Racecars, father of Rickie Jones NHRA P/S driver) never recommends running tubes for safety reasons. A slow leak is safer than a fast leakdown due to a ripped valvestem/pinched and torn tube during the run. Screwing without tubes is fine.

But, I do agree with johns other posts stating that he likes to keep rotational mass to a minimum. That's why I am not looking to get 12"s again...and I'm totally down with losing the tubes.

Here's a question, if you're looking to keep rotational mass to a minimum, why are you looking to run the biggest tire you can? Because it looks ? Gear ratio? You need a 30" tire to hook the car?

[Mike Peters]

I've never ran tubes in mine, but I have been considering it to help stiffen the tire up some.

You just need to fit those 315's under there.

[427belair]

I run the 28x10.5w mt on a 12" rim and couldnt be happier. 1.33 60' on a crappy track.

[Mike Peters]

I run the 28x10.5w mt on a 12" rim and couldnt be happier. 1.33 60' on a crappy track.

How much does your car weigh?

[427belair]

Its right around 3200lbs.

[Bob West]

Hoosier 30x9 or 30x10.5 radial slicks, they dont grow but they are pricey I am currently using the 30x9's, used to use the 10.5's but it hooks just as well with the smaller tire. 94" rollout, C07 compound.

[BracketNova]

Here's a question, if you're looking to keep rotational mass to a minimum, why are you looking to run the biggest tire you can? Because it looks ? Gear ratio? You need a 30" tire to hook the car?

Well, ideally I wanted to move from my 29" X 12" tire / 4.88 posi to a 28" X 10" / 4.11 spool setup. Then I could ditch tubes and the diff! I just don't have the cash to do that...I am looking for sponsers though . Right now I turn 5800 at the end of the eigth. I'm 1.5 hours from my normal track that runs eigths and points on Saturdays and 1.5 hours from a track that runs quarters and points on Sundays. On top of that those two tracks and one 3 hours away put on a circuit of 10 races for a grand price of about $10,000 in go fast stuff and certificates....so I'd like to get in on that.

My slicks are starting to scare me, they have long cracks on the inside sidewalls parallel to the circumfrence of the tire. Maybe they rubbed something on the last guys car as I got them used. So, I thought a 30" might help me cheat the rpm a little bit. I'd just have to spin my motor higher than 6K which I was hoping to avoid...maybe I shouldn't be so scared of that???

A 30" slick will rub the lower front and lower rear of the qtr at high speed. You need about 1 1/2" of clearance minimum there as they grow quite a bit. 29.5 will require work also. A 28" won't grow enough to require modifying the fender.

Also check inside the wheelwell along the center line of the tire. You may find that it needs more clearance at the spot where the wheel tub connects to the trunk floor. It will grow more in the center than the edges as it sucks in, it gets bigger around.

John, I've mini tubbed...would this change your prognosis at all??? My 29's haven't given me a problem, but they are old...maybe hard and not growing as much as newer ones?

[BracketNova]

Hoosier 30x9 or 30x10.5 radial slicks, they dont grow but they are pricey I am currently using the 30x9's, used to use the 10.5's but it hooks just as well with the smaller tire. 94" rollout, C07 compound.

I have contemplated a radial or cheater slick...I would like to drive my car on the street again. I'd probably go the cheater slick route. I have concerns about them not hooking as good as my wornout goodyears. But judging from your avatar...

[BracketNova]

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm sorry I instantly post any idea/scheme that pops into my head for review by the members when only about 10% of them materialize.

[John_Heard]

John, I've mini tubbed...would this change your prognosis at all??? My 29's haven't given me a problem, but they are old...maybe hard and not growing as much as newer ones?

Not really, it's the fender lip that is the issue, not really the wheel tub, although it might rub some there as well like I mentioned. Typically the front of the quarter panel is where it's going to rub at first. On the other issue, even on a low end engine I wouldn't be worried about turning one 6k.