DragStuff

Does anyone know, would this gasket from AutoZone fit the Strange M/C caps?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 0_173040_0_

I was basically using the chart that John made and using the year/ model for a 1-1/32 MC to look up these parts.

Another quick question that is not about the M/C, but when plumbing up my brake system, I installed my line lock before my adjustable proportioning valve. This shouldn't matter, should it?

the valve should be in the line that goes to the rear brakes. I guess u have disc front and drum rear, or disc all the way around. the purpose of the valve is to not put equal pressure on the front and rear brakes that will cause lock up of the tires. Usually u want 60-65 percent front and 35-40 to the rear.

I'm actually running mine even front to back, and it seems to be pretty good, haven't attempted to lock them up, but I've been on them pretty hard a few times. I know one thing bruce, make sure you turn that valve the right way! I had mine screwed all the way the WRONG way cutting off most of the front brakes, they don't work so hot like that.

I'm not sure my car needs the prop valve, like I said it's wide open not doing anything. Several small tire car guys I know run theirs that way and it works great. Your mileage may vary

Sorry don't know about the gasket..

I think the Dodge parts are correct for the aftermarket masters.

Ok, let me get this correct, the valve is to be plumbed into the rear brakes and not the front?

I was told to put it in the front brake line?

Makes sense to put it in the back though.

The valve is all the way open, I checked that, but could this be a reason why I was having a hard time getting the brakes to hold the car during a burnout?

Here is the diagram that I worked off of from S&W and letter E is the adjustable valve and they show it in the front brake.
http://www.swracecars.com/Files/SW-Race ... 1-Pg49.pdf

If the prop valve was all the way open that should deliver full pressure to the front brakes. You might want to double check which way the arrow goes though. I had a brain fart and screwed mine in the wrong way like I said, it can happen and if you did, it's not going to have much front brake, but it'll have some.

I'll double check but I know I turned it counter clockwise, which should be open...should be....

My line lock solenoid went out so if I need to switch it to the rear, now is the time.

Have you heard good things about Biondo's line lock? I'm looking to buy his valve this time.

I've been talking to Ray just about everyday on my car issues, so maybe someone other then me can get my junk to run right...

I haven't anything good or bad about Biondo's line lock, I would assume it's a good product, they have a good reputation and all. They are very simple solenoids, not much to them.

What went wrong with yours? Burn the coil out or ? You can buy new seals for them, probably coils too depending on mfg. Most of those are just Peter Paul Solenoids.

If you've been reading Craig's posts about using the line lock on the rear instead of front, just be aware of how that works, it'll be a change in your procedures so..

I don't know what happened, it was working and now it stopped. It's the "non" re-buildable Hurst.

I've been watching Craig's post but I'll put the line lock in the front.

I'm already confused enough, so that would make me even, more confused....

Do you hear the solenoid click when you hit the button? Have your wife hit the button while you hold a screwdriver near the coil, you should feel it magnetize when activated. If it's not doing that, check to see if you're getting voltage to the coil, you may have a wiring problem vs a solenoid problem.

Heard one click and since then, nothing.
I checked and have 12v coming off of the switch, then I connect my multi meter to the lead wire on my solenoid and then the other end of the meter to a hot under the car, I have 12v going in, but still no click.
I double checked my ground and still, no clickety click....so off to the trash can it goes.

When you get it off, hook it up to a battery and try it one more time before you pitch it.

Bruce69Camaro wrote:I'll double check but I know I turned it counter clockwise, which should be open...should be....

My line lock solenoid went out so if I need to switch it to the rear, now is the time.

Have you heard good things about Biondo's line lock? I'm looking to buy his valve this time.

I've been talking to Ray just about everyday on my car issues, so maybe someone other then me can get my junk to run right...

May want to check this. Right from Wilwood.
The adjusting knob is marked with an arrow indicating the direction required to decrease line pressure to the
calipers. The knob rotated all the way out (counter-clockwise) will provide a maximum pressure reduction of
57%. Rotating the knob in (clockwise) will incrementally increase line prressure, up to full pressure. If the
range of adjustment in the valve is not sufficient to properly balance the vehicle’s bias, changes to other
components within the system may be necessary.

I forgot to ask, what type of M/C are u using? If it is like a stock type with the large reservoir in the front and the small in back thats a disc/drum M/C. If it has two about the same size, then it needs the proportioning valve to reduce the pressure to the rear brakes even if has discs on the back. You can also get ones with a different bore to help with the amount of fluid pushed(7/8 & 1") and the hardness of the pedal, smaller gives more solid pedal but might not push enough fluid for disc brakes with a large stock type piston, generally for aftermarket 4 piston calipers.
Line-loc always goes between m/c and front brakes
proportion valve always goes in line going from m/c and rear brakes