Dana 60 or 9"
Moderator: John_Heard
Dana 60 or 9"
which is really the better rear-end to go with? i know the dana weighs more, but is the strength worth it? Right now the car weighs 3,147 w/o driver. Thats with a cast iron headed 396. I also havent caged it yet....thanks for the help...Ryan
- TubbedTruck67
- Posts: 374
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 11:59 am
- Location: Joplin, Mo
Depends on your budget,
Dana 60 is easily $800 cheaper to build, but you have limited gear selection and even less Pro Gears to chose from. Dana does not have to have anything done to it other than build it. If you are needing to run a 3 something gear there are no Pro Gears
9" Has to have housing braced, Have to buy a Nodular third member and Aluminum Pinion Support, But gear selection is fantastic in both street and Pro Gears
Dana 60 is easily $800 cheaper to build, but you have limited gear selection and even less Pro Gears to chose from. Dana does not have to have anything done to it other than build it. If you are needing to run a 3 something gear there are no Pro Gears
9" Has to have housing braced, Have to buy a Nodular third member and Aluminum Pinion Support, But gear selection is fantastic in both street and Pro Gears
- Mike Peters
- Posts: 930
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 1:48 pm
- Location: Wichita, KS
If you have a Chevelle i'd say buy a bolt in 9" Ford. If you have a leaf spring car, Nova, Camaro, etc maybe a Dana would be a better choice since the housings are stronger. Neither of these rear ends are likely to break though. The 9" has many more gears to chose from and you can build several center sections and change them out in less than an hour if needed. You won't have to back brace them if you have the factory attachment points as my son's has been in his car for over 10 years with no rear end trouble and it has over a thousand H.P. and no back brace. A leaf spring car puts way more tortional loading on the housing than the factory four links do so you would be wise to brace one of those. The Dana is about 50 lbs. heavier.
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