strange problem, losing et

[drummondracing]

Dumb question but have you checked to make sure you are getting WOT? My buddys car did the same thing, he was using a cheap throttle cable holder and it was "turning" on the carb and each time he put it to the floor it turned a little more, there by not pulling the secondarys fully open. Just a thought,

[wikd69]

Dumb question but have you checked to make sure you are getting WOT? My buddys car did the same thing, he was using a cheap throttle cable holder and it was "turning" on the carb and each time he put it to the floor it turned a little more, there by not pulling the secondarys fully open. Just a thought,

Thats a good thought - I've had that prob with this cheapie Lokar stuff I use...

[rustbucket]

yep.
heres what ive done this week.
checked fuel flow, checked carb and replaced pv,replaced coil and coil wire and monday im replacing fuel filter. Going back to track next sunday. thanks again

[rustbucket]

went back to the track yesterday after replacing the fuel filter, fuel pressure guage, coil (mounted vertical), coil wire, new power valve. Same thing again. I spoke with ptc again and they mentioned the stater shaft in the tranny could be bad and the converter would act locked up. However it still goes up on the chip ok.
Question... Could the band adjustment on the glide cause this type of problem?
I dont know squat about the inner workings of a transmission or converter but the car launches like the problem is one of the 2.
By process of elimination and going back through 3 years of time slips, from the 330 through the 660 my time has only varied 2/100ths of a second. All of my problem is at launch.
All opinions are very helpful and I have checked everything mentioned in this post.
thanks again, tony

[John_Heard]

Have you ever adjusted your Band? If not call Sid or Keith and they'll walk you through the procedure. I don't know if it would cause your problem, but I know they want it checked as standard maintenance.

It sucks that you still haven't found it..

[rustbucket]

indeed it does suck. thanks again

[rustbucket]

went to track yesterday with a new borrowed 950 quick fuel and a new borrowed msd. same issue. I guess I will reluctantly pull the tranny and converter and have them checked out. I have now checked or replaced fuel system, electrical system, engines and tried 2 different converters. The only thing left is tranny or differential. It sure sounds like converter but I didnt think a spragless could develop this type of problem.
I was thinking back at any possible changes that ive made and remembered that i did replace the holley strip dominator intake with a port matched super victor intake. Surely making that change wouldnt effect the car 4/10ths. Has anybody swapped around intakes and seen that kind of difference? thanks, tony
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[Hitchcock]

Never seen it with an intake in paticular. But my dad put on some different mufflers on his truck. The engine before the mufflers would freely buzz to 5500 on the trans brake. After it struggled to get to 4500. Took them off, and it came right back. He never bothered to run it with the new mufflers on it, but for that matter he always races open header. Not in a street class or anything.

[John_Heard]

went to track yesterday with a new borrowed 950 quick fuel and a new borrowed msd. same issue. I guess I will reluctantly pull the tranny and converter and have them checked out. I have now checked or replaced fuel system, electrical system, engines and tried 2 different converters. The only thing left is tranny or differential. It sure sounds like converter but I didnt think a spragless could develop this type of problem.
I was thinking back at any possible changes that ive made and remembered that i did replace the holley strip dominator intake with a port matched super victor intake. Surely making that change wouldnt effect the car 4/10ths. Has anybody swapped around intakes and seen that kind of difference? thanks, tony
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I ran across a message the other day where a guy was having a similar problem and it was his brakes dragging. First pass was fine, then the car got slower and slower. Something about pushrod sticking in the master cyl or something. Something else to look at.

[want-a-be]

Very Good call there John!!!

While you're checking out your brakes, check out each rubber line,....assuming you are still running stock type brake lines. I've seen the insides of the lines collapse and act just like a check valve. Best and easiest test for this is to get the car on jack stands, BEFORE pumping the brakes at all, try spinning all the tires. Tranny in neutral of course for the rear tires. Then pump the brakes pretty hard. try the tire spinning again. If you have any locked up, that rubber brake line needs changed. Need more proof? Loosen the air bleed valve on the locked up brake caliper, ( or wheel cylinder ), and watch the pressure release so the tire will spin again.

There are alot of things that cause this. But one of the most common is going from the older type brake fluid to the newer brake fluids out there. Plus,...older brake lines were not rated for the newer fluids. Have you changed the type Brake fluids you are running?

I've seen this dozens of times. Has happened to me 3-4 times on my every day vehicles, and once on my old race car.