DragStuff

I was just on vacation and had some time to install my tranny kit and also hooked up the exhaust (3" pipe into turbo mufflers).

I fired it up and man did it sound good. I ran it through the gears to make sure that I did the tranny kit correctly and everything worked fine.

Then just as I lowered the car back to the ground and was getting ready to drive it, I noticed the water temp was close to 220°F so I noticed I forgot to turn on the water pump drive and also the fan.

So I shut it down to cool off.

But then this made me start to think if my system was going to be able to handle hot temperatures. I have a 2 core aluminum radiator, 12" straight blade 1050CFM electric fan pushing the air, Moroso water pump drive, stock water pump with one of those FlowKooler impeler disc's and no thermostat.

One thing I got to remember is that there was no air flow going through the radiator but does this sound like this should keep things cooled down?

Also what is the difference between a straight blade and "S" blade fan? Is one better then the other?

Thanks

Bruce

The S blade is said to be more efficient.
You'll run hotter if the carb is lean. The radiator should cool fine as long as the water is held in the radiator long enough. Speeding up the water pump is not always a good thing, especially since you are not using a t-stat.
Is there a reason you are not running a t-stat? I run a 160 with a 1/8" hold drilled off to the side which allows air pockets to escape after a drain and fill of the engine or radiator. I have a 12:1 385 sbc with alum heads, stock radiator, clutch fan and shroud. I can hot lap it without going over 180 in 80-85 degree heat and high humidity/dew point.

Clark

Hey Bruce,
Leave the t-stat out of it, it's not a street car. Ah it is a Camaro though.
I have the biggest alu. radiator money can buy with 2 spal fans that pull 3800 cfm's. It's over kill. In 100*+ at the track my motor never saw over 190* at the end of a run. And that is running a 300 shot of nitrous.

If it runs hot you can sell it and get you a cooler car like a Nova.

No reason for not running a thermostat, I was just told that I didn't need one but maybe it is a good idea to put in a 160.

I have heard of drilling 1/8" holes in the stat.


thanks

Bruce

supernova wrote:Hey Bruce,
Leave the t-stat out of it, it's not a street car. Ah it is a Camaro though.
...
If it runs hot you can sell it and get you a cooler car like a Nova.

You are one funny man...

Take a thermostat and knock the guts out, then puts whats left back in. It'll more or less look like a little tin washer. This slows the water flow so that it can cool off properly in the rad.

Where's your timing? When my 402 is at 36° it will barely warm up 160° or so, 38° it will run up to 200° and above that I will assume hotter yet.

I had issues with heat where the motor would get hot, puke out from under the cap and then I'd be screwed until things cooled down enough to fill the system back up with water. Low water levels in the block would kill me until I refilled the system.

So here's what I did that helped the whole thing. Note the AN line which cross-connects the water jackets at the back of the manifold:



This cross-connect feeds an AN line which goes forward and dumps *outside* of the thermostat, effectively venting any air in the block directly to the top of the radiator - also, what you cannot see here is the hole I drilled in the thermostat plate allowing air to vent at the front of the block.



This all serves to continually vent all the air from the system, keeping a solid slug of water in the block even if coolant is low.

This is not a magic cure-all, but this little trick, combined with the high volume water pump, mondo sized radiator and 6 blade steel fan effectively solved my blower motor cooling issues. Of course, your mileage may vary.

supernova wrote:Hey Bruce,
Leave the t-stat out of it, it's not a street car. Ah it is a Camaro though.
I have the biggest alu. radiator money can buy with 2 spal fans that pull 3800 cfm's. It's over kill. In 100*+ at the track my motor never saw over 190* at the end of a run. And that is running a 300 shot of nitrous.

If it runs hot you can sell it and get you a cooler car like a Nova.

I'd buy a Mustang before I ever bought a Nova......

I think the timing is set at either 34 or 36 degrees, I'd have to check with Keith on that to be sure.

I believe the Moroso water pump drive only spins the water pump to 1800rpm and does anyone know what a stock pump flows? I'm wondering if I would use an electric water pump if that would be better? I know some of them flow between 35 and 55gpm.
I also don't like that I'm pushing air through the radiator instead of pulling it. The reason for this is, not enough room between the water pump and radiator with my current fan. I could probably get a thin mount fan in there though.
I just want to make sure that the day I finally get it to the track, I don't over heat things driving up to the staging lanes.

Thanks

Bruce

Ok, I'll buy a Honda and put a tin can on the exhaust and slam it to the ground.

I know that will make you real jealous

Bruce

I have an old Datsun B210 4 door we're going to slam and turbo charge for my nefaw next year that will see your Honda and take your Camaro easily.

Ha! We can start a web site and call it Foreign Stuff.

Don't you mean this:



Bruce

Ya Ya, I wonder if John will sponsor it?

I wouldn't count on that...