Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Moderator: John_Heard
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Well the block has taken a little longer that it was supposed to, but you know how that goes, so I got bored waiting on it, and found something to keep me from getting too bored. I also fabricated a new overhead control panel, this time with rocker switches in lieu of toggle switches and installed that and rewired things.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Holy moley !!! Nice selection :) I was running that Eagle kit in my 427 (3.76 stroke vs your 4.25 stroke) and it really worked well for me. Nice tube mount on the radiator, too :)
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Well here is some not so nice news.
I picked up the block last night and the shop is saying that there is a crack in the #4 cylinder.
Going off of his word, I called the guy that got me the block. I was surprised that he came over within an hour calling him. He wanted to see this crack. When he got there I showed him and he told me that this was not a crack but a common water stain that he has seen before when he rebuilt boat motors. I have to agree, this area was pretty smooth and there was no jagged edges, but still, I'm going off what the shop says.
He told me to take the block to a shop and have it pressured tested and if it is cracked, he will pay for the test. So I'm contacting someone today.
I like the guys at this shop but now I'm rethinking things. The shop told me, that I should scrap the block, he said the cylinder can be fixed with a sleeve but he was more concerned about some debris that was stuck in the front oil passage to the main cap. He said all other passages are clear but this one, something is wrong. I got home and it took me about two minutes with a small punch to knock out, what I was told could be bearing debris from when the owner spun a bearing. It was soft metal and it came right out so now.
Looking for another shop is easy, I'm just hoping that the block checks out ok.
I picked up the block last night and the shop is saying that there is a crack in the #4 cylinder.
Going off of his word, I called the guy that got me the block. I was surprised that he came over within an hour calling him. He wanted to see this crack. When he got there I showed him and he told me that this was not a crack but a common water stain that he has seen before when he rebuilt boat motors. I have to agree, this area was pretty smooth and there was no jagged edges, but still, I'm going off what the shop says.
He told me to take the block to a shop and have it pressured tested and if it is cracked, he will pay for the test. So I'm contacting someone today.
I like the guys at this shop but now I'm rethinking things. The shop told me, that I should scrap the block, he said the cylinder can be fixed with a sleeve but he was more concerned about some debris that was stuck in the front oil passage to the main cap. He said all other passages are clear but this one, something is wrong. I got home and it took me about two minutes with a small punch to knock out, what I was told could be bearing debris from when the owner spun a bearing. It was soft metal and it came right out so now.
Looking for another shop is easy, I'm just hoping that the block checks out ok.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
So whats cooking ? Inquiring minds want an update. Did you find another shop to check that block out ? I'm having issues finding quality machine work in my area - most of the mom and pop shops are gone around here it seems. Used to be you can find a machine shop pretty easily - maybe it's all of the old cars and trucks being melted down and turned into Toyata Prius pedal cars has done away with the need for real machine shops.
Anyway, whats the buzz, cuz ?
Anyway, whats the buzz, cuz ?
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Hey Harry,
Here's what's going on.
Called a new shop and they told me that they could verify the area for me, when I would bring the block but they would prefer checking the entire block just to be sure. I get there and the owner looked at the "crack" and said that is no crack, it's a rust stain. The son removes the block from my truck and says the same thing. He tells me he would like to magnaflux the entire block and then bore that cylinder 10 over to make sure it cleans up but he assured me it wasn't a crack.
So within 2 weeks I get a call that the block was done. He then tells me they just honed the block 0.002" and it cleaned right up and the block checked out ok after they magnafluxed it. He then tells me that the clean job the first shop did to it was terrible. In fact he said it was the worst he saw in a long time.
But at least the block is good so now it's time to move forward.
The block is currently over at Ray's house and he's prepping it for machine work. He put the crank in and made sure there was no clearance issues with the weights, he removed sharp edges and cleaned up the rear main cap where the oil pump bolts on. He de-burred the lifter valley oil return holes.
The shop that I just used, I liked and is a good shop, but are were extremely expensive, so since Ray is doing business with Andy Jensen, he asked him if he would do the machining and he said he would. Even though it is a 4 hour round trip to his shop, he is still going to save me close to $500.
So the next step is to pay Ray for the crank and rods and then save for the pistons.
That's it's for now.
Here's what's going on.
Called a new shop and they told me that they could verify the area for me, when I would bring the block but they would prefer checking the entire block just to be sure. I get there and the owner looked at the "crack" and said that is no crack, it's a rust stain. The son removes the block from my truck and says the same thing. He tells me he would like to magnaflux the entire block and then bore that cylinder 10 over to make sure it cleans up but he assured me it wasn't a crack.
So within 2 weeks I get a call that the block was done. He then tells me they just honed the block 0.002" and it cleaned right up and the block checked out ok after they magnafluxed it. He then tells me that the clean job the first shop did to it was terrible. In fact he said it was the worst he saw in a long time.
But at least the block is good so now it's time to move forward.
The block is currently over at Ray's house and he's prepping it for machine work. He put the crank in and made sure there was no clearance issues with the weights, he removed sharp edges and cleaned up the rear main cap where the oil pump bolts on. He de-burred the lifter valley oil return holes.
The shop that I just used, I liked and is a good shop, but are were extremely expensive, so since Ray is doing business with Andy Jensen, he asked him if he would do the machining and he said he would. Even though it is a 4 hour round trip to his shop, he is still going to save me close to $500.
So the next step is to pay Ray for the crank and rods and then save for the pistons.
That's it's for now.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
What are you doing for heads ?Bruce69Camaro wrote:Hey Harry,
Here's what's going on.
Called a new shop and they told me that they could verify the area for me, when I would bring the block but they would prefer checking the entire block just to be sure. I get there and the owner looked at the "crack" and said that is no crack, it's a rust stain. The son removes the block from my truck and says the same thing. He tells me he would like to magnaflux the entire block and then bore that cylinder 10 over to make sure it cleans up but he assured me it wasn't a crack.
So within 2 weeks I get a call that the block was done. He then tells me they just honed the block 0.002" and it cleaned right up and the block checked out ok after they magnafluxed it. He then tells me that the clean job the first shop did to it was terrible. In fact he said it was the worst he saw in a long time.
But at least the block is good so now it's time to move forward.
The block is currently over at Ray's house and he's prepping it for machine work. He put the crank in and made sure there was no clearance issues with the weights, he removed sharp edges and cleaned up the rear main cap where the oil pump bolts on. He de-burred the lifter valley oil return holes.
The shop that I just used, I liked and is a good shop, but are were extremely expensive, so since Ray is doing business with Andy Jensen, he asked him if he would do the machining and he said he would. Even though it is a 4 hour round trip to his shop, he is still going to save me close to $500.
So the next step is to pay Ray for the crank and rods and then save for the pistons.
That's it's for now.
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
For heads, we're going to Scott Foxwell, and he's going to work over a set of ProMaxx heads for us.
The goal with this motor is simple, 700HP with the possibilities of a few extra and Scott told me that he has had a lot of good success with these heads and 700HP is pretty easy to get out of them.
I'm sure I'll catch some flake for using them, instead of Dart or Brodix, but I've looked into these heads and they have a very good success rate and their castings have a very good quality to them. I told Ray, I just can't stomach paying out $3500-4000 for a set of brand named heads for a 10.0 motor.
The goal with this motor is simple, 700HP with the possibilities of a few extra and Scott told me that he has had a lot of good success with these heads and 700HP is pretty easy to get out of them.
I'm sure I'll catch some flake for using them, instead of Dart or Brodix, but I've looked into these heads and they have a very good success rate and their castings have a very good quality to them. I told Ray, I just can't stomach paying out $3500-4000 for a set of brand named heads for a 10.0 motor.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Nothing wrong with that approach.Bruce69Camaro wrote:For heads, we're going to Scott Foxwell, and he's going to work over a set of ProMaxx heads for us.
The goal with this motor is simple, 700HP with the possibilities of a few extra and Scott told me that he has had a lot of good success with these heads and 700HP is pretty easy to get out of them.
I'm sure I'll catch some flake for using them, instead of Dart or Brodix, but I've looked into these heads and they have a very good success rate and their castings have a very good quality to them. I told Ray, I just can't stomach paying out $3500-4000 for a set of brand named heads for a 10.0 motor.
How big a bump stick are you looking at, and what compression ratio ? Single or dual carb ? Are you planning to use a plate or anything on the motor ? That obviously gives you inexpensive horsepower, though it can get expensive pretty quickly if you go with low-end solenoids or goof up on your pump, wiring or timing.
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Looking for 13:1 compression, solid roller with a lift between .725" and.750", Victor R intake with a 1050 Dominator.
No plate with this motor.
The new goal is for a motor that is 700+ HP and I've been trying to find more weighs to get the weight of the car down.
The big issue with that is, when I first had the car weighed, it was #3000 w/o me and at that time, I was weighing 270's.
I put the car and myself on a diet and this is where I get confused. The car with me in it, weighed #3300? I know I was 240
so with all the stuff I removed from my car, how did it just gain weight?
Then the guy at the scales says, don't trust this scale, it has not been checked of calibrated for years.
So as of right now, we are assuming that the car weighs #3300 with me and with a 700HP motor, that should put me a bit faster than my goal of 10.0, so whatever the correct weight is, it could be a bonus for me.
No plate with this motor.
The new goal is for a motor that is 700+ HP and I've been trying to find more weighs to get the weight of the car down.
The big issue with that is, when I first had the car weighed, it was #3000 w/o me and at that time, I was weighing 270's.
I put the car and myself on a diet and this is where I get confused. The car with me in it, weighed #3300? I know I was 240
so with all the stuff I removed from my car, how did it just gain weight?
Then the guy at the scales says, don't trust this scale, it has not been checked of calibrated for years.
So as of right now, we are assuming that the car weighs #3300 with me and with a 700HP motor, that should put me a bit faster than my goal of 10.0, so whatever the correct weight is, it could be a bonus for me.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
I'm so jealous. My little piggy weighs in at 3600 with me in it. I could go with a full glass front end, glass trunk lid, shell out the doors and that would drop my ET and up my mph a bunch, but then it would look like a race car, not a street car. I guess I'm ok with my little blue chubster.Bruce69Camaro wrote:Looking for 13:1 compression, solid roller with a lift between .725" and.750", Victor R intake with a 1050 Dominator.
No plate with this motor.
The new goal is for a motor that is 700+ HP and I've been trying to find more weighs to get the weight of the car down.
The big issue with that is, when I first had the car weighed, it was #3000 w/o me and at that time, I was weighing 270's.
I put the car and myself on a diet and this is where I get confused. The car with me in it, weighed #3300? I know I was 240
so with all the stuff I removed from my car, how did it just gain weight?
Then the guy at the scales says, don't trust this scale, it has not been checked of calibrated for years.
So as of right now, we are assuming that the car weighs #3300 with me and with a 700HP motor, that should put me a bit faster than my goal of 10.0, so whatever the correct weight is, it could be a bonus for me.
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
When I first had it weighed the only fiberglass was the hood, deck lid, bumpers, everything else is factory, even the glass. It was #3000.
Since then I put in rear and quarter lexan windows, gutted the doors, but still have factory glass, tubular radiator support, light weight bumper brackets, removed the NOS system and the big thing will be, aluminum heads over cast. That should drop me about 60 lbs. I'm hoping that the car will come in between #2900-2950. My overall goal is to be #3150 with me in it.
Since then I put in rear and quarter lexan windows, gutted the doors, but still have factory glass, tubular radiator support, light weight bumper brackets, removed the NOS system and the big thing will be, aluminum heads over cast. That should drop me about 60 lbs. I'm hoping that the car will come in between #2900-2950. My overall goal is to be #3150 with me in it.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
Speaking of the radiator support. My buddy Nelsito finished welding things up for me and I painted it and got things back together. Total weight, I'm calling 8 lbs. because it's easier to add even numbers....LOL
I mounted the tranny cooler on the lower right side, you can see the lines running to it.
Its not in the picture, but I covered the gap between the top of the support and the front header panel with some black aluminum to direct the air more into the radiator.
![Image](http://camaroforums.com/forum/members/bruce69camaro-44678-albums-evil-pumpkin-4191-picture-finished-support-16536.jpg)
I mounted the tranny cooler on the lower right side, you can see the lines running to it.
Its not in the picture, but I covered the gap between the top of the support and the front header panel with some black aluminum to direct the air more into the radiator.
![Image](http://camaroforums.com/forum/members/bruce69camaro-44678-albums-evil-pumpkin-4191-picture-finished-support-16536.jpg)
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
As I recall, OEM cast iron heads weigh 70 lbs each. Dart aluminum heads weigh less than half that each.Bruce69Camaro wrote:When I first had it weighed the only fiberglass was the hood, deck lid, bumpers, everything else is factory, even the glass. It was #3000.
Since then I put in rear and quarter lexan windows, gutted the doors, but still have factory glass, tubular radiator support, light weight bumper brackets, removed the NOS system and the big thing will be, aluminum heads over cast. That should drop me about 60 lbs. I'm hoping that the car will come in between #2900-2950. My overall goal is to be #3150 with me in it.
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
As I recall, OEM cast iron heads weigh 70 lbs each. Dart aluminum heads weigh less than half that each.Bruce69Camaro wrote:When I first had it weighed the only fiberglass was the hood, deck lid, bumpers, everything else is factory, even the glass. It was #3000.
Since then I put in rear and quarter lexan windows, gutted the doors, but still have factory glass, tubular radiator support, light weight bumper brackets, removed the NOS system and the big thing will be, aluminum heads over cast. That should drop me about 60 lbs. I'm hoping that the car will come in between #2900-2950. My overall goal is to be #3150 with me in it.
1969 ProStreet Camaro RS Best 9.75@139 1.46 60'
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
Blown 427 BBC, TH400 w/Brake, Back-Half Ladderbar
Narrowed 12-Bolt, 4.10 Gears, Spool, Moser 33 Spline
http://www.marsh-racing.com/harrys_camaro-1.htm
- Bruce69Camaro
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2009 11:07 am
- Location: PA
Re: Sometimes you win and sometimes you loose
![Image](http://camaroforums.com/forum/members/bruce69camaro-44678-albums-496-build-4862-picture-new-pistons-16639.jpg)
New slugs for the motor showed up last week.
It's getting there slowly.
Next step is a trip to the machine shop as soon as the money is saved up.
Those who think they know it all have no way of finding out they don't.........
![Head Scratch :scratch:](./images/smilies/icon_headscratch.gif)
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