DragStuff

I'm having a hard time getting a handle on my suspension..It's a 78 camaro stock susp.28-10.5 m/t's It has caltracs split mono leaf rancho shocks on the back and moroso trick springs and calvert 90/10's on the front.It weighs 3300 w/me in it...HELP!!!!The best 60 I've gotten out of it is a 1.47 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my5FKPfzaG4

First - remember this is going to take more than a couple passes to sort out.

From what I can see on the video, I'd try slowing the front shocks down a little bit. Are they adjustable? I can see in the video the car hitting the tire ok, but it appears to want to spin when the front travel stops.

If you can't slow the shocks, or get new ones right now, try increasing the travel on the front end - like removing the travel stops if you still have them.

Thanks John....Let me back up a little.I had it working great w/a 200 shop on a plate system the 60 was still only a 1.4 but atleast it hooked..I've since changed to a fogger system and thats where the problems came about.I've tried alot of different combos w/the links top hole bottom hole pre-load no preload...Ive backed fogger down to 10% with a 2.5 second ramp time....and so on.I do have adjustable front shocks though I had not even though about that...I'll try that and let you know...

Ok well I figured them out but, it wasn't the easiest thing I've ever done LOL...The more power you make the more aggressive you have to be...SO you make big power go to the top hole and start PRELOADING from there.......IF YOU MAKE OVER 1000HP @ THE WHEELS GO TO THE TOP HOLE AND STAY THERE!!!!If your one of us go up and start preloading till it works ...........HAPPY RACING GUYS

http://www.youtube.com/user/YoungGun496 ... ts5MJb7otw
Bottom caltrac hole, 1.31 60ft.

Get rid of the Rancho shocks and get you a set of D/A QA1 or Afco's and let it eat....... The more power you make the worse the Rancho are.....

Wildchild - you're at the point where a data logger with Driveshaft RPM would be VERY helpful. What you're looking for now is a balancing point of launch RPM, suspension settings, tire pressure, track prep, track temp, etc. Without a drive shaft sensor, you're shooting in the dark and video is the best you can do watching what the car does. When everything is all working "just right" then the 60' is great, but one out of dozens of variables gets out of whack and poof goes the launch. Frankly you might be amazed what you find by experimenting with the launch rpm... This stuff you have to look at under a microscope. What is the wheel speed at .1, .2, .3,.5 ???? It's all tune able...

Trust me, the upper hole, or bottom hole are only adjustments - there is no rule that it has to be in either position.

Well said John. I've seen cars run well in both the bottom and top hole. I prefer the bottom for my particular setup and have been 1.26 on 26x8.5s.

I hear you guys, I made the car work with the bars in the upper hole then I put a chance converter in it and BAM there it was my converter was too loose or???? But my 60 is now a 1.28-1.29 and the car is actually easier to tune in the heat or cold.It went a 1.30 @ 126 degree track temp so all in all the converter was more or a problem than the suspension.I actually leave at a lower RPM then before but,it works so I'm happy with it now....

Have you played with launch rpm?

I've had to make some big changes to my suspension setup since taking 100+ lbs out of the car and building a stronger engine. I'm now have the Caltracs in the top hole and much tighter rear shock settings. I've also been able to put more travel in the front with looser front shock settings. So far so good, but I've got a lot of improvement left to find.