DragStuff

I have looked at some post and I am impressed with the logs, it seems with the information gained adjustments on the car could be made to vastly improove the performance.

Since I installed the turbo system on the car there are to many things to look at and I only have half the time to due so.
I learn nothing as I just can't seem to look at the gages while trying to drive and keep it in the groove.

What is a good system that will log without braking the bank????

I like Racepak but there pricey.

There's a whole bunch of posts in this forum noting how much everyone likes the RPM Performance System. Not only is the product top notch at a budget price, but Randy gives outstanding support to his customers as well.

http://www.rpmperf.com

Thanks guys.

I shopped around for a few months before choosing RPM. What sold me was the turn key packages. I picked what fit my needs best and everything was in the box. I didn't know what worked with what and the RPM deal basically took me out of the loop.

John_Heard wrote: Randy gives outstanding support to his customers as well.
http://www.rpmperf.com

ha ha ha don't make me One of the guys at rpm is good (not Randy) we switched to racepack they are much more accurate!

(EDITED BY ADMIN - Don't modify others text when you are quoting them)

racingj - I assume you never attempted to take up Randy on his offer to help you with whatever issue it was you were having?

What is your name?

I did, but he told me the system was fine. We had cylinder temps at 1600 on one cylinder. The tempature of the one next to it was at 1080. So we checked the plugs, they were perfect. Then we adjusted and checked the depth of the sensors. They were all good. so he wanted me to check them with a bic lighter. I did they were up to 700 each but would take a lighter each time to get all the way hot. We then switched the sensors around and the probelm would follow. Then i called and someone else answered and he told me he thought the block that the sensors go into were bad. He wanted me to check some things and i did and called back and Randy answered and said the block was good and it had to be something else. Just wish he would have tried harder to figure out what was wrong. We are not rookies at this,our car has ran 10 6.90's in a row with a few 6.8's at 200mph

Jason

Jason,

I am sorry you had a bad experience with RPM. The last time you blasted me on this forum, I asked you to please contact me and I would do whatever was needed to fix the situation. Never heard from you.

I remember our discussion regarding the EGT problem, and the symptoms, test conditions, and results you explained to me identified a different result. You told me you moved the probes between cylinders and then the other cylinder showed hot. If all you did was move the probes and didn't change them in the connector box (as I understood) and then the readings swapped cylinders, that means that the hot cylinder still read hot with a different probe and different data logger channel. This is what I understood from you, and that clearly points to a hot cylinder and not a data logger problem. After that, we never heard back from you, and assumed you had solved the hot cylinder problem.

You can blast me all you want, that is your right, but if you didn't explain the test conditions accurately, you can't blame me for reaching the wrong conclusion, and since you wouldn't respond to our attempts to make it right as soon as we learned there was still a problem, you can't put that on us either.

I don't claim to be 100% correct all the time, but I will always see to it that RPM Performance always does whatever is necessary to take care of our customers as long as we know there is a problem.
If you had called and said the problem was still there, I am sure you would have seen that.

Randy McMahon
RPM Performance Products

We had cylinders 4,6,7 hot and the rest were good. We checked the plugs and they were great. We even shipped the plugs down to Nitrous Express and they said they looked great. #4 showed 1600 degree and #2 showed 1080 degree. We switched the probes from the #2 to the #4 cylinder without changing anything.This meaning the #2 was in the #4 header and vise versa. #2 showed 1080 degree and #4 was 1600 degree after a run. So what is wrong?

Couple things I'd suggest, first what is the free air temps when the motor is off? Are they approximately even? I'd also pull all 8 and stick them in a pan of boiling water and see if they register 212* or there abouts. That might yield some useful info.

When you moniter the status they are close in temp. We had the motor dyno'd and the superflow e.g.t's said they were good at 1090 to 1100. So we didn't touch a thing. Then we put the motor in the car and ran it with no NOS and they were off by 300 deg.

racingj wrote:When you moniter the status they are close in temp. We had the motor dyno'd and the superflow e.g.t's said they were good at 1090 to 1100. So we didn't touch a thing. Then we put the motor in the car and ran it with no NOS and they were off by 300 deg.

Did you really think they were going to read the same as when it was on the Dyno???

Not exactly, but I would think they would be close. 1500 to 1100 deg makes you think that something would be wrong with the motor and we checked everything.

I'd bet if you send the thermocouples and box into Randy he would check them out for you and see what's going on. If something was wrong with a thermocouple, you would think it would be off also when the engine was not running (or immersed in boiling water).