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Bob Stroud on Racing Seat Belts and Window Nets
A Racers Q & A with Bob Stroud of Stroud Safety
Written By John Heard
Why are there different types of shoulder straps offered and how do you know
which design to get?
There are several different types of restraint designs because there are
numerous types of car/cage designs. There is not one type car/cage built. The
best way to determine which design is right for your combination is to call
the manufacturer of the restraints and give him the details he asks for. If
your restraint supplier does not what you are talking about, find another
supplier. It's your butt on the line, not his. He is just trying to make
money, not get you the right product. Most of the restraint manufacturers are
very competent, but some are not. Watch out...
What's the story behind the NHRA cancellation of the Y belt design?
The Y design shoulder assembly was eliminated from SFI approval as it was
deemed to be a very weak unit. I agree with this. It was also a very
uncomfortable design, which has nothing to do with safety. There were reports
of the Y belt coming apart in a wreck, although I cannot confirm this. Drag
racing was the last sport to outlaw the Y design. Everybody (NASCAR, USAC,
SCCA, Indy Car CART, etc.) had outlawed them many years ago. This was a good
call on everyone's part. Y types are now expired and are no longer legal.
Submarine or Crotch Straps, what's the difference between the single or the
dual submarine straps?
The single vs. dual crotch straps are in most cases a matter of choice. I
like the dual straps better because it fits around the legs better, but some
cars do not have the room to use duals. I see a day when the duals will be
the only permitted crotch design allowed, as they do have more surface area
to absorb shock. There is also the fact that some of the laydown cars need
more crotch support due to the driver position. In this case the dual is
obviously better.
For belt anchor points on a stock floor pan car, do you suggest using the
OEM attachment points for the lap belts if they are in the correct
position?
I am a restraint manufacturer, not a chassis designer/builder, so I am going
to plead ignorance on this subject. I suggest that you call one of the better
chassis builders to ask this question, as I do not want to give out wrong
info and get someone hurt. You might try one of the St. Louis boys.
Kam lock Vs Latch and Link which is better and why? Which one is better for
getting out quickly when upside down?
I like the kam design better. The latch and link system (L&L) is a good
design that was designed by Americans in the 1920's for aircraft. It is a
good design and very durable. It also is a royal pain to use, as you have to
get all the straps in the same place at the same time before you can latch
it. By the way, the USA is the only place that uses the L&L belts. Europe
does not have anything like it (Not Invented there!). The kam design is much
easier to use in that you can fasten one belt at a time by yourself. Much
easier. Both belts meet the same SFI requirements very well. There are some
places that I will not use a kam. If you are in any type of dirt racing,
NEVER use a kam, as they can get debris inside of them and jam. The kam
is a bit easier to release in most conditions, but they both work well.
I've heard some drivers pull their belts as tight as they can get them, is
this a good practice? Why? Would you please explain the proper buckling and
adjustment techniques?
Always wear your belts as tight as you can. The nylon in the belts has
enough stretch to give you plenty of deceleration in a crash. NEVER
WEAR YOUR BELTS LOOSE!
There are no particular special way to adjust your belts, however,
always tighten the lap belts first. The crotch should be be
tightened while the car is in the shop to make it a one time adjustment.
We've seen some cars with stock seats have the belts installed by just
looping over the top of a seat and anchoring right behind the seat on the floor
(instead of to the roll bar). What kind of result would this driver see in a
wreck?
Probably death. If you are using stock seats, you have a street car. We do
not make restraints for street cars. A real race car has a racing seat and a
cage. Racing restraints require this arrangement. Anything else is dangerous
and should not be done. As far as the stock seats go, they allow too much
movement to do well in a crash.
What is the reason that SFI requires belts to expire every 2 years? Does one
color stand up better than others to UV? Are recerts really necessary or
is it overkill?
The general public sees it as overkill since our daily drivers go for years
with the same belts. I think that the general public is in some cases being
misled. We have the factory test results on the webbing and so do the car
manufacturers, so I assume that they feel it is cheaper to play the odds that
nothing bad happens than to fix the problem in the first place. Makes you
wonder.
Restraints are made from either nylon (most) or polyester (some) Both
materials are susceptible to Ultra Violet light damage. After exposure to UV
light, both materials begin to weaken and loose strength. The color of the
webbing doesn't matter. If you don't believe me, take a look at some of the
open cars. Look at the shoulder harnesses and compare the outside color with
the color on the underneath side of the webbing. If it is faded, it is
damaged. After looking at DuPonts test results on Nylon 66, there was a
noticeable drop in strength after ONE WEEK!
We at Stroud reweb our belts every year because of that reason. Also, all
manufacturers that choose to recertify their belts (we do) must replace all
the webbing. We cannot simply put on new tags.
What is your opinion on seats for Drag Racing? Which is best Aluminum or
Plastic?
Aluminum is better, but you need to contact Ultrashield and talk to Robert
Bass about seats. While he is ugly, he is also the best seat manufacturer
there is (800-832-7292) Tell him Handsome Bob told you to call.
Are the aluminum seats lighter than plastic?
No.
Window Nets - How far from the window should these be installed? What
problems can occur in a wreck with these?
The nets need to be mounted on the INSIDE of the rollcage so that they are
not drug off in a crash. The forward edge of the net needs to be within 2
inches of the bottom of the steering wheel and right next to the front hoop
of the cage by the driver. It can be no less than 10" wide at its narrowest
by SFI specs.
SFI specs cover window nets themselves, but not the attachments. This has
been discussed by the net manufacturers for quite a while. Apparently, you
could use duct tape and zip ties to mount your net and it would be OK. We
have seen mountings that make you wonder. There are several ways to PROPERLY
mount a net, and most of the net manufacturers will discuss this with you.
And yes, some designs are better for certain applications. Visit with the net
builder. Always remember, it is easier to make the net fit the car than it is
to make the car fit the net.
How long are window nets good for?
Nets are good for 2 years, just like restraints and for the exact same
reasons.
Thanks Bob for taking the time to answer these questions in detail! If
you have any questions or need belts, window nets, parachutes or other safety
equipment give Stroud Safety a call at 1-800-554-4648 or on the web at http://www.stroudsafety.com
