your whole combo is pretty good, you need data aquisition at this point to try to improve as the only thing left to tune is the small things that cant be seen with out a data logger. A basic system with engine rpm, driveshaft and g meter is all you need.

If it drops 800+ rpm then you are not driving through it , that does not mean you could not benifit from lowering the stall , it means you may not need to lower the stall.
what cI inch is the motor? bore / stroke ? how much nitrous?

RPM drop should be between 700 to 1200 depending on the torque curve of the motor.


If you tighten the converter up it will not flash as high on the launch , and this may allow you to get your nitrous on sooner

you can tune 90% of your launch problems with engine rpm, driveshaft rpm and G-meter. Any time the g-meter goes down look at drive shaft, if the drive shaft goes up as g's go down you are spinning. also you may want to purchase a new Mark Williams yoke as i have heard Mike Duffy say MANY times that ...

RPM data logger
$588 for engine, driveshaft and battery
you can add a g meter for less than $300
i can have it shipped today
Marty Chance 316-542-9869

before you throw money at it , I would recommend you spend some money on a data logger so you can see where the problem is, it may not be the converter and i would hate to see you spend a bunch of money to find out you replaced a part that could have worked.

after looking at your race pak - throw both stages at it and it will take it. You'll lay down some killer numbers that will scare people! Let us know how you do.

good plan, glad to see you are going to try to make the higher flash stall converter work for you.

what kind of shocks and struts are you running? you may have a suspension issue

first try putting the old gear back in (4.11) and the increase in stall speed may take care of the reaction time problem. Let us know what the result is. Remember the golden rule ...... only one change at a time.

those changes to the motor will also effect stall, so be sure to discuss that as well with who ever does your stall change, if you are sending the converter to us then give me a call so we can go over all the details and i will start a file on the car. Marty Chance

yes , this needs the stall raised in the converter. Do you have anything that records engine rpm during a pass? this could held a great deal in correctly setting the stall and the efficiency ratio in the converter.

The 9.5"converter is going to be too small to effeciently harness the torque of a 4.750" stroke conventional headed motor on nitrous. They do work well on motor but for the juice you will need a 10" and unfortunitly the 10" will be too tight for the motor. There are some acceptio...

N/A , nitrous , turbo or blower cubic inch bore stroke heads with flow numbers is possible intake cam compression ratio efi/carb rpm @ shift rpm @ finish weight with driver gear ratio tire size midplate thickness transmission trans brake? input shaft spline suspension, stock,ladder bar, 4-link, back...

the gear change and higher rpm will help , you are on the right track