From the picture it looks like the wheelie bars are hitting early and unloading the tires. Raise them up until the front end gets too high.

It doesn't have to be the big pieces that eat the bearing. Your oil filter can only filter so far to not stop oil flow through it. When thousands of those little pieces get through the filter it is like having fine lapping compound running through the motor. Generally the bigger grit will get caught...

Just start pulling the motor out now. If it ate the cam gear, all the shavings are going to eat the bearings and everything else. And if you truly are having cam gear alignment issues, the best way to set it is looking through the cam plug at the rear of the block.

Even the wrong cam will go past 5000. Check the valvesprings, check for interference with the valvetrain. Check the fuel system. It is very unlikely that the cam you have is stopping at 5000.

I apologize about being all over. BUT I do eventually want to put in a big block, but I just don't have the funds for it right now. I am trying to get it set up on a budget and then will move on from there and keep adding to it. I will get ahold of the guy about a converter, I never knew you had to...

I have never used their stock type shocks but I have the single adjustable coil over shocks in the back of the chevelle now.

I have the Koni Spa-1 shocks in the front of mine now. I ran the comp engineering shocks on mine into the 10.30's. But from what i've heard the calvert shocks are good for the camaro and novas.

It was actually really reasonable for cost. Andy Jensen of Jensen engine technologies ran it the whole day for $450. I brought the gas and anything I wanted to change. It was worth it to me over going to the track and spending the money for the day to not be able to quantify any gains. I saw 7 hp in...

Here is mine sitting on the frame rails and tied to the strut bars. http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c306/bracketchev1221/chevelle%20pics/DSC01455.jpg As far as motor plate/mid plate mounting, you need to either use the mid plate with a motor plate OR use the motor plate and stock mounts. The mid p...

I still use gaskets on mine. One between the plate and the block and one between the pump and plate. Both with Ultra black silicone on them. And like John said, make the plate so it can sit on the rails and then bolt it in place.

Pull a head and measure the cylinder diameter. And you can pull the pan and get the casting number off the crank. But a simple thing to check is a 366 was a tall deck block. If the water pump is about 1/2" from the deck then it's either a 366 or a tall deck 427.

Well, it all comes down to ease of power. A 355 COULD be built to go low 7's in the 1/8. However it is much easier to do it with a much milder 454. I would go for a 525-550hp 454 and run under the index anywhere under any conditions.

punisher66j wrote:364779 on the back of block which comes back as a 366? Kinda pissed guy said it was 454 when I night it.

Well the only thing maybe useable is the crank and rods. Otherwise it's junk.

Cut the entire mount off. That is a late model like late 70s motor mount. On early cars the rubber was in the block mount and the frame stand was solid.

Test fitted the engine in the car today and was looking at the engine mounts and how close the engine is to the fire wall. How close it supposed to sit? Also I believe I am going to have to buy some frame mounts because I don't believe they are correct and somone welded them in and did a crappy job...