I've never pulled anything heavy with my 4.10 geared truck just the 3.55, but with both trucks empty they get the exact same milage, 18-19. You will almost always get better milage the slower you tow, but if you are like us and always in a hurry thats hard to do, we do keep the rpm under 1900 all th...

You are doing alright at 12.5, we used to get that with a 30' trailer, now with the 48' gooseneck we are down to 10.0 but its very heavy. Is this a stock truck? The cummins will usually get better milage with a few toys, fueling boxes, bigger injectors, and if you have gobs of $$$$, compound turbos....

Blower motors (usually) like a little more lobe separation (like 112 or 114*) and a little more duration on the exhaust side. Other than that pick a cam like you would any other motor, RPM, CID, USE...ect. Cam manufacture's can be really helpful, although they do tend to stay on the safe side of thi...

With any small tire car with higher HP, your gonna find the sidewalls are beat up and dead long before the tread is worn down. Some change tires in 8 to 10 passes, some may get up to 30 passes. I just replaced my 295 Hoosier drag radials with 46 runs on them, probably should have replaced them at 3...

Like its been said before, I've done 99% of the work on my car and wouldnt have it any other way. There is alot of satisfaction having your own work go down the track, and its cheaper.....(usually). I built my first drag motor in high school auto shop, I was so proud, the down side was she only made...

I dont think its a matter of sprung weight, but rotating weight.

Light wheels will help, just not much.

I dont know what your old heads were like but, those Darts should piss it off good and proper.

Even with a blower, good heads are worth the money.

Shaft style rockers are great, but I would'nt trust procomps. T&D or Jessel, are the only ones I would trust. I went the T&D route years ago, and still running the same set, .752 lift, 8500 rpm big wedge blower motor. I had a tranny go dumb on me, the motor went to 10,500, didnt hurt a thing...

That thrust area theory might have some merit in a blower motor, they sure are hard on skirts, that could beat up rings too I guess.

About the oil seperating ring, I dont even pay attention to it, doesnt matter where it is, thats only my opinion of course someone else might have other ideas.

Thats what we do. Top ring to towards the valley, second ring 180 degrees from it. Oil rings are inline with the pins 180 apart. We've done it like that since I can remember, on all our motors. Personally I dont think its a big deal where they are but I do think the 180 apart is best, just so they h...

For a street car I would go with a chain and good one because of your cam. The dual idler gear drives are only good for one thing, making noise. The single (fixed) idler gear drives are another story, very strong and very accurate valve timing, the only way to make harmonics with them is to set them...

I think they are worth even more power if you dont clip the tails off.

A cammer motor even, this is getting better and better.

Do you have any figures on what the car is going to weigh finished?

Just one more question, how quick do you want it to be?

This motor did all this with no load on it at all, not one pass? Wierd!! I dont usually bad mouth brands, but my only experiance with Callies cranks wasnt a good one, it ate bearings too, but personally I still doubt that its your crankshaft. My problem was I was overpowering it and it was flexing t...

Im with John on this one, DANG. Ive had my share of bearing problems and you've got a problem somewhere. It looks to me like a few mains got hurt first and the rod bearings just caught the crap from the mains dying. That oil probably isnt the cause but its not helping anything either, good oil will ...