John, the floats used to be notched and sealed with an acrylic like clear nail polish. Most of the newer floats are closed cell, and don't have to be sealed if they are cut. I prefer to use floats that have the notches molded, Holley and Quick Fuel both now have them, but my favorite is the Braswell...

Try replacing the N&S's. Over time the o-rings go bad, and don't seal well. Also check the floats, nitrophyl floats can go bad and soak up fuel. I would absolutely try .035 squirters as well, the calibration on that carb is already too rich at lower RPM's.

If you can post all the info on the carb, size, all metering data including air bleeds, idle jet size, intermediate jets, emulsion bleed size number and position.

Some good reading on the combustion process by Shrinker/Bruce Robertson here.

http://motorsportsvillage.com/forum/vie ... f=6&t=8245

You have to have sufficient VAPORIZED fuel to start and maintain the ignition in the cylinder, if not enough is vaporized it will not start or not complete the combustion process, and essentially misfire. Too much liquid fuel can cause the same issue, not allowing the initial flame kernel to grow en...

If it's been setting a good cleaning may help. You have to also remember when an engine misfires it can show a lean spike when there may be plenty of fuel available. This may be caused because the fuel isn't prepped well by the carb/induction, plugs are not hot enough or fouled, timing not advanced ...

8's will be fine if the idle and transition circuits are tuned to the lean side, this will keep the plugs clean enough. We run 7's up to about 14.5 to 1, my 15.5 to 1 SB2 uses 8's.

One thing to consider when phasing the distributor with a crank trigger is if you run a substantial timing retard for nitrous or ???, you want to phase it in between the advanced and retarded point, and I might lean it toward where the timing spends the most time. Otherwise it you have it set for on...

Chad.
http://www.speierracingheads.com/SRH2.50.htm

Few things, stuck N&S or trash hanging it open, float absorbing fuel, and occasionally the o-ring on the N&S will leak, but usually not enough to cause that issue. Also, no reason to use that much fuel pressure in a gas carb, my race engine is set to 6 psi.

For those that have not heard there is a Carb Shootout starting Saturday at BLP. Two engines, a Mullins Racing Engines SBC built for stock car racing and a Steve Schmidt BBC built for drag racing will be used on BLP's Revolution inertia dyno to test the carbs performance. Performance will be measure...

Bruce69Camaro wrote: They don't list a price, does that mean it's free for now?

Yes but packaging and shipping costs around or over six figures...

On a drag engine you NEVER want a PV in the secondary side. Not only do you not need it as you have figured out, but where are the fuel pickup extensions for it? On the launch, fuel runs away from the PV, why you have jet extensions on the jets. If you want to tune it well for the track, plug both a...

I would only be concerned with the RPM if it is below where the engine makes peak torque. You will also see that the RPM will change due to weather, if the DA is higher or humidity goes up the car slows dow, engine makes less power, so the engine will drop more RPM at the start and the shifts. What ...