Chassis Cert. Question

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mmsports33
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Chassis Cert. Question

#1 Post by mmsports33 » Fri Jul 25, 2008 8:12 am

Hi guy's......does anybody know if there is a spec size and/or thickness for frame "outriggers" on a unibody type car.....I think 2X3 is what most people use.....not sure about the thickness though.....would like to keep it as light as possible and still cert.

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CoMax Racing
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#2 Post by CoMax Racing » Fri Jul 25, 2008 12:09 pm

25.5 SFI Specs out that bar at 2x3 .083 CM and MS.


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mmsports33
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#3 Post by mmsports33 » Mon Jul 28, 2008 12:37 pm

Does it say anything about the floor pans? Do they have to be stock or mostly stock? I know about the plates if you put the cage to the floor but I would think with outriggers you could do about anything with the floor...

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dadnova
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#4 Post by dadnova » Mon Jul 28, 2008 5:29 pm

.024 steel equal to the firewall thickness may be stitch welded in place, however if the OEM transmission tunnel is replaced with other than .024 thick welded steel, then the center floor X braces (#4) must be installed.

So you can use a lighter gage material, however more frame work has to be added, which may or may not fit, or work , with your application.

I had my Nova Certified to 7.5 not long ago, and I could not install the X braces, because the drive shaft was in this location, so the OEM floor and tunnel had to stay, on my application.

Flooring was only removed where attachment points were, and framing was installed within the car floor for the ladder bar clearance. .024 replaced all flooring removed.
Gotta plan, spend it before she can, and go as fast as you can.

mmsports33
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#5 Post by mmsports33 » Mon Jul 28, 2008 5:58 pm

Ok.....so let me see if I've got this.......I can replace the "stock" floor pan with sheet metal....024 steel......and the tranny tunnel....with .024 steel.....it just has to be welded..(the tranny tunnel)....it can't be removable.....and if it is removable I have to run an x brace between the frame rails....which I assume are actually my subframe connectors.......is this right?

ARAM
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#6 Post by ARAM » Thu Jul 31, 2008 6:15 pm

Mine is done with the x brace and replace the floor. The (trans tunnel) can be removeable , The (drive shaft tunnel) has to be .024 steel and it has to be stitch welded back in . My car will cert to 7.50
. The nhra teck has looked at this already and guided us in this area. You can also use the trans. cross member to tie in your sfi foot brace bar . Your best bet is to buy the sfi book . $25.00 bucks .
I am trying to load up some pics but the are to large of a file.
If you look under my othe tred here (mini tubbing a nova) you might be able to see the floor ! If not i can send some pics. direct to you if you whould like .
West coast heads up racing Pacific street car association
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supernova
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#7 Post by supernova » Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:27 pm

NHRA rule book 2008, on page 78 says minimum requirements for outriggers is as follows:
1 5/8 x .118 MS or .083 CM round and/or 2"x2" x .058 MS or CM rectangular.

I used 2"x3" x .125 rect. outriggers in my car and I was not worried about what little weight it added. Look on the floor behind the seat and you will see the subframe connector thru the floor and the outrigger from the connector to the rocker panel. It was a lot of work but well worth it.
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1972 Nova SS
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et: 5.28
mph: 134
new wt. 3340 lbs

mmsports33
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#8 Post by mmsports33 » Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:05 pm

ARAM wrote:Mine is done with the x brace and replace the floor. The (trans tunnel) can be removeable , The (drive shaft tunnel) has to be .024 steel and it has to be stitch welded back in . My car will cert to 7.50
. The nhra teck has looked at this already and guided us in this area. You can also use the trans. cross member to tie in your sfi foot brace bar . Your best bet is to buy the sfi book . $25.00 bucks .
I am trying to load up some pics but the are to large of a file.
If you look under my othe tred here (mini tubbing a nova) you might be able to see the floor ! If not i can send some pics. direct to you if you whould like .
Now you actually ended up back halfing your car didn't you? I'm not PLANING on back halfing it but from about where the bottom part of the back seat goes forward is pretty trashed so instead on spending money and time on "stock" floor pans I was gonna cut it all out...run my sub frame connectors...out riggers to the sides...and tie it all in with the cage then use sheet meatl to make floors....and preferably a removeable trans tunnel.....for sure before I start I'm gonna get the SFI book just kinda kicking around what I will have to do if I go that route.....by the way your car looks great.....what pushed you over to go ahead and back half it?

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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#9 Post by ARAM » Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:27 pm

I was just going to mini tub it, but then i got a screeming deal on som bogart weels that are 12'' wide and would not fit in the frame rails.
Then i got a good deal on a racecraft ftont end, so i decided to do the tube chassie and funny car cage. It is going to cert at 7.50 but it will only run in the nines.
Better to do it now wile i have the car down !
West coast heads up racing Pacific street car association
mean street #13

mmsports33
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#10 Post by mmsports33 » Mon Aug 04, 2008 6:17 pm

ARAM wrote:I was just going to mini tub it, but then i got a screeming deal on som bogart weels that are 12'' wide and would not fit in the frame rails.
Then i got a good deal on a racecraft ftont end, so i decided to do the tube chassie and funny car cage. It is going to cert at 7.50 but it will only run in the nines.
Better to do it now wile i have the car down !
Isn't it funny how a little piece like a couple of wheels can send a project to crazy land! :lol: ......anyway like I said....it's a sick looking car....

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dadnova
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Re: Chassis Cert. Question

#11 Post by dadnova » Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:47 pm

:lol: :lol: Isn't funny how we all start to due one thing, then we end up changing everything.
That's why I say, figure out how fast you want to go, then build for allot more.
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Gotta plan, spend it before she can, and go as fast as you can.

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