Control Arm Bushing Replacement

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hugger73hatch
Posts: 360
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Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#1 Post by hugger73hatch » Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:17 pm

So I am finally getting around to replacing my front control arm bushings that I bought last year (Energy Suspension). I am wondering if most people use a bearing splitter and a hydraulic shop press to press them out. If so do you have a recommendation as to what splitter to use? I don't want to spend a small fortune. I have looked at some online, but there are a lot to choose from. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

JES
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#2 Post by JES » Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:47 am

For easy removal of control arm bushings; put a block of wood or some kind of spacer between the gap on the lower side, then clamp in the vice with out distorting. Then get the widest air hammer bit you have and make sure the cutting edge is slightly rounded/not sharp so as not to cut. Then push out with the air hammer. Usually push from two spots. When instaling the new bushings put a spacer the same way, so you do not collapse the control arm. An old peice of exhaust pipe cut to distance works well. Then use the press to put them in. John

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hugger73hatch
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#3 Post by hugger73hatch » Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:29 pm

Got control arms off today and removed both upper ball joints as I am going to replace all the ball joints. Any one have any suggestions on removing the lower ball joints. Should I borrow a ball joint service tool kit? I guess it will make life easier.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

sc racing
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 1:45 pm
Location: Sahuartia Az

Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#4 Post by sc racing » Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:54 am

hugger73hatch wrote:Got control arms off today and removed both upper ball joints as I am going to replace all the ball joints. Any one have any suggestions on removing the lower ball joints. Should I borrow a ball joint service tool kit? I guess it will make life easier.
If you get the tool by all means get it. With the tool it will take just a few minutes for both,if the just kinda fall out the hole in the arm is worn and will need to be replaced. Did you get low friction ball joints or just regular ones?

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hugger73hatch
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#5 Post by hugger73hatch » Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:00 pm

Just regular from MOOG. I was told it really didn't matter a whole lot. What is your opinion? Also, where can you buy that tool?
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

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Bob West
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#6 Post by Bob West » Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:15 pm

I've just borrowed them from the local Oreillys auto parts store.
72 Malibu-Nov. '08-1.329-3.995-6.280@106.94-9.988@131.62
best 60ft to date- 1.319
http://www.dragtimes.com/1972-Chevrolet ... -5251.html

sc racing
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Location: Sahuartia Az

Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#7 Post by sc racing » Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:29 am

hugger73hatch wrote:Just regular from MOOG. I was told it really didn't matter a whole lot. What is your opinion? Also, where can you buy that tool?
I dont know about the ball joints,I put them in because I needed new ones and they were not too much more money as far as the tool a good kit will cost a lot so just rent or borrow one.

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hugger73hatch
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#8 Post by hugger73hatch » Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:01 pm

That's my plan. I got a good buddy that owns a shop and he is going to let me borrow his.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

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hugger73hatch
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#9 Post by hugger73hatch » Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:49 pm

Got everything back in today. Now I got to get the alignment done. Project went pretty smooth and I am pleased with the way it looks. Are most of you leaving the control arm bolts somewhat loose to help weight transfer? Before the new bushings I had lock nuts on the bolts and not all the way tight. Just curious.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

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Bob West
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#10 Post by Bob West » Sun Apr 04, 2010 11:35 am

I'm using the crimped lock nuts whatever you call them. I snug them down as evenly as possible, allowing the control arm to fall under its own weight.
72 Malibu-Nov. '08-1.329-3.995-6.280@106.94-9.988@131.62
best 60ft to date- 1.319
http://www.dragtimes.com/1972-Chevrolet ... -5251.html

sc racing
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Location: Sahuartia Az

Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#11 Post by sc racing » Sun Apr 04, 2010 6:07 pm

Bob West wrote:I'm using the crimped lock nuts whatever you call them. I snug them down as evenly as possible, allowing the control arm to fall under its own weight.
They are called Stover nuts :mrgreen:

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hugger73hatch
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#12 Post by hugger73hatch » Sun Apr 04, 2010 8:35 pm

One more question. This car sees very little street driving and someone told me when I have it aligned to adjust the toe in more than normal as it is recommended for drag racing as there is less friction on the track. How does everyone fell about that? I want to make sure I use the correct lingo as I do not know much of the proper terms for aligning a front end.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

Ten5Valiant
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Re: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

#13 Post by Ten5Valiant » Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:23 pm

Not 100% sure on toe, but I think you want it at or very close to zero for racing. Some other things I was told to do were....

1)ad caster to help the car go/stay straight
2)sit in the car during the alignment so it can be done with your body weight on the chassis
3)do the alignment with the car raised 2" in front to simulate it's stance going down the track

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