DragStuff

What's an ideal weight distribution, front/rear, cross, etc. on a 10.5 tire at 3450 lbs? What would be considered to be excessive rear weight? 51-52%?? How hard should you work to get rid of the left side weight the driver adds to the car?

I'm curious as well. We run 3470# and sometimes a 10.5 but usualy an 26 X 8.5 M/T. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

I talked to Dave and a few other guys on the phone a week or two ago and everyone was pretty much in agreement that you want to try and get the weight about as even as you can left to right, within reason. On my car it has to run @3450. Once I get some more time to work on it I'll now how much ballast I'll have to add back in.

In the races we run you would be a Big Block with power adder at 3450 lbs. Where do you race at?

My wife and I run in the VFN shootout at Wabash Valley (IN) and the OSCA (IN, KY, OH) in Fun Street and Mild Street. We could run at 3250 lbs. but still have a couple hundred to loose yet.

When I finally get the car going again it'll be racing with MAKO which runs at two tracks, Tulsa Oklahoma and Asbury Missouri in the Real Street class, which is also a 3450lb (BB/power adder) class. MAKO just got started this year really, the guys are already running sub 8.50's in Real Street. If you race VFN then you know my friend Mike Stark, Mike did the heads for my car.

well in our superstocker we did all we could to get it 50/50, i think if i remeber right we ended up somewheres around 51/49 or so. we ran goodyear 30x9 drag radial slicks, car 60fted its best was 1.32 with a 10.51 at 124. the car weight was 3200lbs.

Nice Launch 8)

I've got mine at about 50/50 right now and have to add some ballast to make weight, not sure exactly how much yet. I would not be surprised if it ends up at 51% rear weight. My biggest issue right now is trying to equal out the cross weights.

Yeah, I know Mike. I'm going to have him warm up our Cleveland heads.

Sweet launch! Is that a ladder bar or cal track car?

scperf wrote:Yeah, I know Mike. I'm going to have him warm up our Cleveland heads.

Sweet launch! Is that a ladder bar or cal track car?

we made it ourselves, its based off a caltrac bar. we changed mounting points to change the instant center of the car, the leaf springs are fiberglass springs off an astro van we had to modify them pretty good to make em work. all materials are lightweight also, most of it is made out of aluminum and some chromoly with titanium bolts. we added a ton of weight to the car also to get it to trnasfer and hook, rear bumper alone was 150lbs.

Got back from the alignment shop today after rearranging things a bit
Weight is now 2733#
car balance
LR/RF 49.8
RR/LF 50.2
FRONT 51.9
REAR 48.1
LEFT 51.9
RIGHT 48.1
I feel better about this, now all i need is bring the left/right split closer
the alignment was not quite so good but hopefully Daves tubular A arms will help out

FL FR
CAMBER-2.3* -1.56*
CASTER 0.15* 0.17*
TOE 0.06" 0.06"


FRONT CROSS CAMBER-0.57*
CROSS CASTER 0.02*
TOTAL TOE 0.12


RL RR
CAMBER 0.03 -0.17
TOE -0.18 0.12

REAR CROSS CAMBER 0.20*
TOTAL TOE -0.06
THRUST ANGLE -0.29*

Was the weight measured with you in the car Roy?

Hi John
yes I was installed in the flight seat while they weighed car

we like 52% or more on the rear..left side/ right side helps the anti sway bar work better if equal..watch the front suspension for true equal ride heights..unequal distance induce torque roll and can upset what the rear bar is doing for you..of course longitudinal strength can't be overstressed in high hp applicatiuons..start with everything equal..if the car comes up with left tire higher you can cheat and drop that side a little to keep car flat at launch..or use shocks to slow rise up..hope i'm making sense to you..that flatter you keep the car, the faster it will go, and a lot straighter..

Hey Ron
Thanks for the guidance
Royz