Let me give you one of the keys to the castle imo. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-trailertowtips.aspx Trailer tounge weight IS KEY to mpg, handling, and - safety.
I got a deal on a dodge 1-ton...but I used to use the below setup.
Thats my old 1/2 ton and my 28ft pace w/ my 3000lb nova and 600lb golf cart inside. The golfcart is pulled all the way to the front. There's also a queenside bed, small toolbox, jack, and jackstands...and a cooler up front.
Use the above link to set your tongue weight (suggestions...go 4 feet out on the bar - I used a left over roll cage tube- and use a jackstand as the pintle point, it will keep the tube from rolling.) to 13% of your weight. Move the car forward or back and make a mark where to stop for reference. It will pull nicely (not start swaying, and not be bouncy) and won't squat your truck. Also, make sure you read how to set up that hitch...take your time to get it right. I spent an hour or two getting mine dialed in. My half ton sank 1.5"s with no suspension add ons...I was considering an add-a-leaf for good measure though.
My point being it can be done, as mentioned above - the biggest downside are 1/2 ton brakes. I got 11 mpg w/ my 5.3 pulling 8300 lbs (15mpg w/ an open trailer - 5300lbs). behind it 75 miles one way to the trak through 35% hills. Doing 75 mph for 30 miles and 70 the rest of the way. Like John said, you can improve the mpgs if you slow down....but when I got to the track I'm too excited to be economical.
Everything involved with getting to the track and working in the pits
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