SBC Blocks.

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Moparious Maximus · #1 Post by **Moparious Maximus** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:34 am

I know there are some high horse SBC guys in here....

We run a injected alky 388" motor in a FED, in a stock 350 block. I want to make some more power but I'm worried about the block, what is the HP limit on a stock 4 bolt block?

Is the Little M a good piece?

Im looking to make around 1000 hp. Kinda like to stick with an iron block to save some money.

jmarkaudio · #2 Post by **jmarkaudio** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:19 pm

Darts blocks are the best, I don't think the Little M is rated that high but would probably take it just fine. 1000 HP... I hope you plan some power adder for that...

hugger73hatch · #3 Post by **hugger73hatch** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:40 pm

I got a Little M, 400, .040 over. As long as I continue to run 400s I will not go back to a factory block.

TubbedTruck67 · #4 Post by **TubbedTruck67** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:56 pm

A little m will handle a 1000hp fine. Im making that or damn close to that on a stock 010 casting 350 block. Its pushing the limit for sure but its doable.

Hitchcock · #5 Post by **Hitchcock** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 3:57 pm

TubbedTruck67 wrote:A little m will handle a 1000hp fine. Im making that or damn close to that on a stock 010 casting 350 block. Its pushing the limit for sure but its doable.

Are you gonna leave it like that for a while? Or is it gonna get a dart. When you take that block out, (in 1 piece or several) make it a coffee table. To much of a trooper to throw away.

ERV JR · #6 Post by **ERV JR** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:43 am

TubbedTruck67 wrote:A little m will handle a 1000hp fine. Im making that or damn close to that on a stock 010 casting 350 block. Its pushing the limit for sure but its doable.

Sam what size motor and how many kits ? I think a 010 is fine just run a cast crank then you wont worry about the block. LOL. You have a tall or short fill on the block ?

TubbedTruck67 · #7 Post by **TubbedTruck67** » Tue Jan 19, 2010 5:49 pm

Hey guys sorry I just saw this post! Lol Its 360ci and I have two kits on my car and its a stock cast crank and no fill!

It is broken now though finally couldnt take it any more, I might just make a coffee table out of it.

K-Star Automotive · #8 Post by **K-Star Automotive** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:31 am

I have used both Dart and World blocks in small block builds. I would strongly recommend using the Dart block.

Keith

fishman · #9 Post by **fishman** » Sat Jan 30, 2010 12:36 pm

Dart told me the little m block with billet mains is capable of handling 1400-1500 horse.....a guy i know is running 2015hp through his

sverbus · #10 Post by **sverbus** » Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:36 am

I run a Little M for my 434 and I run 15:1 comp and it's not even O-ringed, just good Fel-pro gaskets and very nice ARP 220 head bolts and very very true surfaces. Ran that compression for 4summers on the street and track, not one problem and we estimate that the motor makes about 650-700 at the crank.

I'd buy another Dart in a heartbeat..I also have their single plane high rise intake and 230cc Pro-1 Heads.

Scott

Moparious Maximus · #11 Post by **Moparious Maximus** » Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:03 pm

fishman wrote:Dart told me the little m block with billet mains is capable of handling 1400-1500 horse.....a guy i know is running 2015hp through his

Are you talking about billet aluminium caps or steel?

We bought a used aluminium dart 400 main, raised cam, spread pan rail block for cheap because someone lost the caps.

When I built my blower motor, I heard from several people (Steel caps have no place on a blown alky motor), and I tend to agree with them.

So I'm leaning towards getting aluminium caps for the little chevy too.

Mike Peters · #12 Post by **Mike Peters** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:01 am

Moparious Maximus wrote:
When I built my blower motor, I heard from several people (Steel caps have no place on a blown alky motor), and I tend to agree with them.

So I'm leaning towards getting aluminium caps for the little chevy too.

Is this true? I've read a little on aluminum main caps and their "shock-absorbing" properties but, I would think the crankshaft and maintaining it's C/L is no place where you would want any "shock-absorbtion" going on. I would think the preferrable scenario would be to hold the crank in it's position and allow aluminum rods to absorb the shock. Not criticizing, just trying to learn here...

Mike Peters · #13 Post by **Mike Peters** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:57 am

Watch the vid and see what Woody says about aluminum caps at the 3:50 mark......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcUqd41s1ws

vegaracer · #14 Post by **vegaracer** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:11 pm

I would say the same thing about aluminum caps. I understand alumnium rods, but caps I could see as a problem.

Moparious Maximus · #15 Post by **Moparious Maximus** » Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:20 pm

I watched the video, and yes steel caps are probably better in a circle track = (pussy motor).

When I ordered my block from KB, Ken told me I should run aluminium caps, so I did.

I'm pretty sure all the T/F and F/C motors run aluminium caps.

From cold motor to running temp, I pick up about .0015 to .002 in main bearing clearance, and want every bit of that, with a hot motor I'm up around .005-.0055 clearance, and my main bores are still round. If you take an aluminium block and steel caps, get it hot, the main bores go out of round.

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