help with 406

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71 Nova · #16 Post by **71 Nova** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:23 pm

I have the latest DynoSim software. PM me if you want me to make some "runs" for you. I'll post the results.

Or anyone else for that matter...
Ken

DriveWFO · #17 Post by **DriveWFO** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:24 pm

IMO, I'd skip the hydraulic roller and go with a solid roller.

project71nova · #18 Post by **project71nova** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:55 pm

i would go to a solid but.... im just not up to do the adjustments all the time. I have never even set adjustments befor........ =(

mytmouz · #19 Post by **mytmouz** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:12 pm

If it's mostly a track car the adjustments will be far between. I run mine about 4 times a year and rarely do they need it, but i'm running stud girdles.

project71nova · #20 Post by **project71nova** » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:43 pm

well its going to mostly be a track car. Like my plan is to build a track car but every other saterday night when i want some fun, ill tear up the streets a little. so... it will be street/strip but i want it kinda wild.

mytmouz · #21 Post by **mytmouz** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:56 am

solid

TubbedTruck67 · #22 Post by **TubbedTruck67** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:35 am

Solid roller with out a doubt is the only way to go. With a stud girdle mine doesnt ever need adjusted. Check em to make sure but they shouldnt move with a girdle.

383hatch · #23 Post by **383hatch** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:22 am

Call comp, and tell them what your goals are, what your setup is, what kind of car etc.. and let them do it for you. IMO that cam isnt gonna get you where you need to be, but if its degreed correctly it might. My buddy had a ford 408, with 205 heads and a cam about that size and it worked for him, so maybe you will be lucky. His cam was hydraulic too!

Also have Pro Systems build you a carb. He will make it right!

I just thought, if its gonna be a track car, go wild with the cam. 270/280s duration, with a closer LSA area will make alot of power.

project71nova · #24 Post by **project71nova** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:58 pm

hmm a solid is tempting but im still not shure. How hard is it to set lash adjustments correctly ? what is the proper way? all i see in a soild is high rpm which im planing to make peak power at 6500..... so why a solid ?

383hatch: yea i can see myself going to a bigger cam with more lift and a closer LSA but wouldnt a duration like that make peak power at 7500 ?

so far the combo listed is roughly making 525hp at 6500 and 477 tq at 4500. (thanks again ken for running my set up on the dyno sim) this is on a 2.02 valve where the eliminators come with the 2.08 so maybe a little more power. that was with a 800 cfm carb and 10.5 comp

project71nova · #25 Post by **project71nova** » Wed Apr 11, 2007 6:00 pm

oh and im diggning the Pro Systems carb, might have to get me one of them

ytnova · #26 Post by **ytnova** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:38 am

Pro-systems is the only way to go on the carb, as for the cam, solid. I use shaft mounts and all I ever do is check them. I can't remember the last time I actually had to adjust one. If you have to adjust them, then something is moving or wearing.

#27 Post by **John_Heard** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 10:54 am

Ditto - if your motor has a history of not needing valve adjustments, then all the sudden you see that one or two need a slight adjustment it's time to tear it down right then, not after the next race.

sc racing · #28 Post by **sc racing** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:50 pm

One more vote for the solid roller.Dont worry about adjusting its not hard and just like everyone else said you wont be doing it all the time.Id take 383's advice call comp cams or better yet call Ultradyne (bullit cams) now I think.As far as pushrods dont buy any until you assemble the motor and use a pushrod lenght tool its the only way to get it right,then call Smith Brothers and have them make you a set.No dual plane manifold its not your tow vehicle. Super Victor would be my choice or equivalent.

DriveWFO · #29 Post by **DriveWFO** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 7:52 am

sc racing wrote:One more vote for the solid roller.Dont worry about adjusting its not hard and just like everyone else said you wont be doing it all the time.Id take 383's advice call comp cams or better yet call Ultradyne (bullit cams) now I think.As far as pushrods dont buy any until you assemble the motor and use a pushrod lenght tool its the only way to get it right,then call Smith Brothers and have them make you a set.No dual plane manifold its not your tow vehicle. Super Victor would be my choice or equivalent.

Ditto on Smith Bros. That's what I'm running in the new motor this season. Some real nice stuff!

383hatch · #30 Post by **383hatch** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 9:41 am

As far as the RPM range, I have two thoughts...

1. Just because the cam is advertised to make power in a certain range, doenst mean it will. My cam is advertised to make power from 4700-8800, and I shift at 6400. The smaller cam you are talking about using will make GREAT torque though. I would call comp and see what they say.

2. Why are you worried about the RPM? That bottom end wont care about some high spinning. A high winding long rod motor wins everytime.

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