2000 GMC 5.3L

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Bruce69Camaro
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2000 GMC 5.3L

#1 Post by Bruce69Camaro » Mon Apr 02, 2012 12:56 pm

Need a little direction here, I got my 2000 GMC K-1500 with the 5.3L.

In the mornings when I go to start it, if fires right up. After I drive it for a little
or let it sit, when I got to start it back up, you have to spin it over for a little before
it starts.

Motor has over 100,000 on it and is all stock.

Any thoughts?
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ytnova
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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#2 Post by ytnova » Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:28 am

Throw a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if it holds fuel pressure with the key off. Just before the pump craps out, they usually start having extended crank issues and will not maintain line pressure with the key off, it should maintain pressure within 5-10 psi of running pressure for a 1/2 hour or so after the key is turned off. I did two last week for the same issue one a s-10 and one a full size. If you do not have a gauge, you can cycle the key on, listen for the pump to prime, turn the key off for 15 seconds, the key on again for a second prime and see if starts immediately. Hope this helps-Ed
I am not really sure what the question is, but I am pretty sure the answer is Big Block.

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Bruce69Camaro
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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#3 Post by Bruce69Camaro » Tue Apr 03, 2012 10:48 am

Help me to understand this, if the pump was taking a crap, wouldn't it be hard to start all the time?

I have no issues when I come out in the morning, fires right up, the only time I have issues is after I drive it, which makes sense then, that it's loosing pressure.

How hard is it to put a pump in?

Thanks

Bruce
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ytnova
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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#4 Post by ytnova » Tue Apr 03, 2012 2:24 pm

Not always, sometimes they just will not hold pressure once they get hot and you turn them off. If that is the problem, it will be very obvious with a gauge on it, you turn it off and they pretty much go to 0-10 psi within a minute or so. They should hold for a while. As for changing it, kind of a pain but you have three options, a lift and a trans jack, pull the bed, or crawl on the ground. You WILL get dirty with any method and the first two are a easier option than the last. Once the tank is out, pretty straight forward to change. A big help is draining the fuel tank BEFORE you pull the tank, which is pretty easy if the pump still works. Disconnect the line at the fuel filter, route to another tank/can, and jump the fuel pump relay, terminal 30 to 87. Most GM vehicles also have a prime pin in the relay box next to/near the relay, simply apply 12 volts and let the pump work for you. I would also recommend getting the whole pump module assembly rather than just the pump, more money, but it sucks to get it back together and the gauge be inaccurate or not even work and have to do all over. Most of the replacement assemblies also are changing the connectors on the assembly, so some wiring maybe involved, guess they had issues with the old design connector. You may also find that you need the "broadcast" number off of the old assembly, sometimes there are multiple part numbers for one vehicle. The broadcast number maybe a combination of letters and numbers or just all letters or numbers, you will need a flashlight, mirror, and rag to get those numbers off the top of the pump module.
I am not really sure what the question is, but I am pretty sure the answer is Big Block.

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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#5 Post by Bruce69Camaro » Wed Apr 04, 2012 5:07 am

Thanks for the help but I don't know about you guy's that go from a Nova to a Mustang lmao2:

As for the fuel pressure guage, what psi range do I need?

Your saying 0-10 psi with the key off, what should it be with the vehicle running, do you know?

You mentioned a test if you don't have a guage, turn on the key, listen for the pump to prime, turn it off for 15 sec's, turn key on for a second prime and start engine. What does this test show you?

Thanks for your help Ed and how is the new project coming along?
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sc racing
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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#6 Post by sc racing » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:35 am

Bruce69Camaro wrote:Thanks for the help but I don't know about you guy's that go from a Nova to a Mustang lmao2:

As for the fuel pressure guage, what psi range do I need?

Your saying 0-10 psi with the key off, what should it be with the vehicle running, do you know?

You mentioned a test if you don't have a guage, turn on the key, listen for the pump to prime, turn it off for 15 sec's, turn key on for a second prime and start engine. What does this test show you?

Thanks for your help Ed and how is the new project coming along?
If the pumps going bad it will drop to 0-10 if its good it should hold full pressure longer I think they run about at about 55psi most FI test gauges go up to 100 psi

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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#7 Post by Bruce69Camaro » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:57 am

Hey, where did you come from?
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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#8 Post by ytnova » Wed Apr 04, 2012 12:08 pm

Exactly what sc said, as for the kinda quick test, i usually use it to point me in that direction without using any tools or opening the hood, but I still put a gauge on it to verify before I go buying parts.
I am not really sure what the question is, but I am pretty sure the answer is Big Block.

sc racing
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Re: 2000 GMC 5.3L

#9 Post by sc racing » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:22 am

Bruce69Camaro wrote:Hey, where did you come from?
Who me? I can read :mrgreen:

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