379 sbc estimate how much hp

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fridaydriver
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379 sbc estimate how much hp

#1 Post by fridaydriver » Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:29 am

New member in this Forum and as a drag racing fan, I would like to know how much Hp (before it's installed)this engine can produce ?
engine specs:
BASE ENGINE 379 C.I.

400 CHEVY SMALL BLOCK .040 OVER = 4.165 HOT HONED 180 DEG.
SCAT 4340 FORGED CRANK 3.480 STROKE
SCAT H BEAM 4340 FORGED ROD ARP 2000 6.250-2.100
MILODON 4 BOLTS MAIN CAP (WAS 2 BOLTS)
CLEVITE 77 H SERIES BEARINGS
PROBE SRS PISTON FORGED –FAT TOP 1.125 400g
SPEED PRO MOLY PLASMA RING
MELLING HV OIL PUMP
ATI SUPER DAMPER + SFI FLEXPLATE

TOP ENGINE

RHS PRO ACTION CAST IRON HEAD
235cc INTAKE RUNNER PORT SIZE: 2.20" X 1.23"
64cc 2.08 INT. 1.6 EXH
ARP HEAD STUD - FEL PRO HP 1003 GASKET

SUPER VICTOR TUNNEL RAM INTAKE
CUSTOMIZED TOP WITH IN LINE PAIR OF HOLLEY 600 CFM VAC.SEC.
FEL PRO 1206 GASKET

COMP CAMS SOLID CAMSHAFT
DURATION 310/320
DURATION @ .050 270/280
LIFT .563/.563
LOBE CENTER 114°

COMP CAMS SOLID LIFTERS
COMP CAMS HI-TECH S/S ROLLER ROCKER 7/16-1.7 RATIO INT.
COMP CAMS HI-TECH S/S ROLLER ROCKER 7/16-1.6 RATIO EXH.
COMP CAMS STUD GIRDLES

CLOYES HEX A JUST DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN

IGNITION
MSD PRO BILLET DISTRIBUTOR
MSD SS COIL
MSD 6 PLUS DIGITAL CONTROL BOX
MOROSO ULTRA RACE 40 PLUG WIRE

FUEL DELIVERY

HOLLEY 140 GPH ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP

COOLING

ELECTRIC PUMP
DRIVETRAIN

TH 350 MANUAL AUTO BODY VALVE TCI STALL 5000 RPM + OIL TRANS COOLER

12 BOLTS GM STRANGE 35 SPLINE AXLE WITH SPOOL
RICHMOND GEAR 4.10
M/T SLICKS 26X10X15

BODY IS A 76 NOVA THAT WEIGHT 3500 WITH THE DRIVER AND I WOULD REV IT TO 8000 RPM MAX

P.S. Sorry for language mistakes cause I usually speak french

THANKS !

sc racing
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#2 Post by sc racing » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:59 pm

The best thing you can do IMO is have it dynoed before you install it .No guessing on its hp plus you can break it in and tune it. Also if you have any problems (I hope you dont) its easier to fix with the motor out.
If I had to guess about 525+or- a few

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sunsation540
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#3 Post by sunsation540 » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:32 pm

using the WAG and desk top dyno i agree 525-540 and in a 3500 lb car that's 11.50s at 118 with the 4.10 at 118 thats like 6300.rpm less cam, more gear, more converter,it's a sbc rpm = hp=et the cam selection????
make a plan and stick to it !!

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rustbucket
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#4 Post by rustbucket » Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:46 pm

hey sunsation, will that desk top dyno calculate the horsepower if you are given a vehicle weight and et?
406sbc, powerglide, nitrous
http://youtube.com/watch?v=DssW5vc_t3k

fridaydriver
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#5 Post by fridaydriver » Wed Dec 27, 2006 3:05 am

Thanks for the info: 525-540hp, I'm a bit disapointed cause the guy said to me that it was 600 and maybe more, if I go over 8000 rpm.
If i change the gear and go with a 4.56 instead of the actual 4.10, would it help me? (I'm not quite shure maybe the torque will grip at a lower rpm.)

I also asked myself a lot of questions concerning the cam specs:
COMP CAMS SOLID CAMSHAFT
DURATION 310/320
DURATION @ .050 270/280
LIFT .563/.563
LOBE CENTER 114°

and find out that this cam is made for blower application. But the engine builder said to me that this engine is built for "race" and race engine sometimes have cam that are not "usual or by the books". So I'm not racing for money, I race for fun. In the real life I work in research & developement (woodworking), So it happens very often that I try new things and maybe this cam will be another one.

Last season I raced the nova with an old 71 350 LT1 that was stock (330hp) and it gave me:
8.22 sec. for 1/8 mile at 87mph
and 12.92 sec. for 1/4 mile at 108 (with a 3000 rpm stall and 4.10)

So with the result of 540 hp (optimist guy :D ) i used a couple of internet calculator : formula hp + weight = 1/4 mile ET
and and it was giving me something around 10.85 at 134mph :shock:
Maybe I'm dreaming but if the car go that fast I'll be very happy with It.

What would be your cam selection for this engine? , in case that this one turn into "disaster".

Thanks!

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sunsation540
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#6 Post by sunsation540 » Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:26 pm

rust bucket the site you want is www.speedworldmotorplex.com under racers tool box... great now friday driver diffrent calculators use diffrent % of loss through the drivetrain so this is not prefect but i took the time to enter the numbers on three calculators to get the guess i made just that..a GUESS however ET has more to do ,or as much to do with the car/ combination not just power, the cam you have is a blower deal great for forced/nitrous, they use excess duration to alow extra intake charge. it's being pushed in.. however in a naturaly asperated situation it kills torque at lower rpm.. your cam is 12-4065 rpm range is 3500-7000 under boost condition.. the ONLY PLACE in the comp book with a sbc cam solid with the same advertised and close 50 numbers is rated 5000-7700 says 5000 stall, light car. out of 100+sbc solids only 2 have this much duration. diffrent is good but????? i won't pic cam but i will tell you that a customer of mine uses 12-611-5 at 3300 lb with a 355 with iron eagles 12.5 turbo 350 foot brake 10:60sbut it's a 4 link on alch 850.. call the tech line and ask for gordon holloway at comp nice guy...
make a plan and stick to it !!

fridaydriver
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#7 Post by fridaydriver » Thu Dec 28, 2006 1:38 am

What is bogging me with the blower cam:
1st is: how it is possible to accomplish a decent volumetric efficiency ratio with a tunnel ram? Even if it is a Super Victor ram, it will never have the capability of a blower.

2nd is: compression of this engine with flat top pistons 64 cc heads is 10.7. A blower would boost the compression and the ratio should be higher. Normally aspirated engine like this one with a lot of flow capacity (300 cfm for .650" int. lift at 28" of H2O) but the compression will always stay at 10.7. (If I'm not wrong). So performance calculation for the blower cam, I think must have included the compression factor for optimum operation.

question 1 : What is the effects of compression too low on cam operation?

P.S. Sunsation 540 cam would make me feel quite more comfortable

I searched on compcams site for info about
12-611-5 cam , the specs:

Camshaft Type : Mechanical Flat Tappet
Basic RPM Range : 4000-7000
Camshaft Duration @ 0.050" I/E : 255°/266°
Advertised Duratation, Int. / Exh. : 290°/304°
Valve Lift : .540"/.534"
Rocker Arm Ratio : 1.5:1
Lobe Seperation Angle : 106°
Valve Lash Settings : .02"/.022"
Idle Quality : Rough
Camshaft Series : Drag Race
Grind Number : 290B-6

lobe seperation angle of the actual one is 114 and for this one it is 106.

question 2: What would the best , higher or lower ?

Hoping that I am not desperating you with my questions :?
Thanks AGAIN!

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dadnova
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#8 Post by dadnova » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:37 am

I agree with friday driver. Bigger is not always better. I just built a 427 small block and the engine builder installed a cam intake total .642 lift 302 duration exh. .625 @ 314. I took the car out and ran 7.5 in the 1/8 the first time. I was very unhappy. Spun a bearing as well. I took the engine to another builder who fixed all the mistakes the first builder made. When Jim rebuilt the engine he install a cam @ Total int..604 @ 292 exh 597 @ 302. Took it out for the first time and ran 7.4 in the 1/8 spinning the tires all the way down, what a differance it made. Now I have a traction problem :lol:

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sunsation540
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#9 Post by sunsation540 » Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:23 pm

i have your compression at 11.7 with 64c head total compression has small effect on the cam however the shorter duration cam has greater retention of compression less pumping loss due to overlap...higher cylinder presure = more torque as for lobe centers wider is to make up for higher duration as to kill overlap, think intake centerline sets the peak of power lower numbers like 101-107 are for lower peak torque and hp occurances with higher levels of power sooner. 108-114 have a broad curve and don't peak they curv. 106-108 for auto foot brake cross at 7200.. reving a engine to 8000 will give you a reward..many small parts
make a plan and stick to it !!

fridaydriver
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#10 Post by fridaydriver » Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:20 am

I talked to the engine builder yesterday concerning the cam and he explained me that this engine is designed in a way for not to be limited in HP production. Torque is lower than a stroker engine but even if it is lower he said that some thing around 400 ft/pd at 4500 will be enough to get the car out of the box. After it's out the hp curve is growing and like you said (sunsation 540) it is not supposed to top until 8800 rpm.
He said the 379 is a perfect engine for (catch-up) game in a track. "Rev it high and it will put you in front".
He explained me that this engine, when it was machined had previously been acid wash and also filled 3/5 with block cement. Final honing of the bore was done at 180 degrees using thermal heater, to be shure that the bore was perfect and also for a better sealing by the piston rings that are more equal this way. Balancing is also a very important issue and every components had been weighted and fully balanced.
Conclusion of discussion was : the last thing a racer wants to happen to his engine is a failure in the base of block (rotating assembly). For the 379 he said it is bullet proof built in prevision of using NOS, (that I won't use) So don't be nervous for high rpm and performance will appear!

Weight of the car is not optimum for that kind of set-up and he said to me that the ET will suffer for that. reducing the weight of the driver will be to tough so I forget it right now :lol: ! Reason why the car weight so much is that the class I race in, is street legal (mufflers, interior, wheel openings and limited to 10"wide slicks)and the car must stay "streetable" even if it's not perfect. Very good chance for me: I live at just 2.5 miles away of the track, so no need for a trailer I just have to change tires and open the cut-out and the fun begins.

So the plan Is: Trying this bizzare engine in the Nova Hoping that the engine builder was right with his prediction. And also trying to find some tricks how to reduce the weight of the car.
I'm shure that this forum will help me a lot, I read many other posts and they are very interesting by the amount of race knowledge they contains.
"nice gang with respect" You can be shure that any suggestion or advice made by one of you will be precious for me "the beginner".

sc racing
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#11 Post by sc racing » Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:48 am

Dont take this the wrong way but there is no way your engine will make power to 8800 and it IS limited to how much hp it can make because of its combination,just like every other engine. Your engine builder seems a little crazy with his explanations.If hes so sure it will perform that way have him dyno it for you.Sunsation540 is right rev it that hi and for sure there will be a lot of little pieces.If you put it in the car before some dyno pulls do youself a favor shift the car between 6500 and 7000.Then shift it between 7000 and 7500 you will be surprized how much slower the car is when you shift it at the higher rpm.This has happened to me with every single engine/car combo Ive ever had.Ive always gone faster shifting lower than I though I should be.Just my .02

fridaydriver
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#12 Post by fridaydriver » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:12 pm

I read what I wrote, and with the help of sr racing I now understand what sunsation said to me about high rpm .... small parts. I'm not used to speak english and it was my mistake.
For shure I take your advise cause small parts is no fun ! Let's say that new limit is 7000 rpm.

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ytnova
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#13 Post by ytnova » Fri Dec 29, 2006 3:49 pm

I agree with sc racing, shift the car around 6500, then 7000, then 7500 and narrow down where it makes the best power. Then go in 100 rpm increments from there. It would really help if you can dyno it before you ever put it in the car though, then you know exactly where it makes power at. A whole lot easier for converter, gear, tire and shift point selection. I wish I had done mine, but I am going to try using a freinds chassis dyno (hopefully for free!)and see what I can learn from that.

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shooked
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#14 Post by shooked » Fri Dec 29, 2006 4:39 pm

Those calculators get you close but that is a perfect scenario. I always tell people to take their car to the drag strip to really see how slow it is. If I get in the low 10's with my NA 496 in a 3300lb tubbed car I will be happy. Also, you can not go wrong with letting the manufacturer of the cam, carb, NOS, etc., actually pick it for you. My 496 with all the goodies is estimated at less than 800HP so do not be too discouraged. Good luck with your setup!
Jody Shook
I would be more apathetic if I were not so lethargic

fridaydriver
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#15 Post by fridaydriver » Sat Dec 30, 2006 3:48 pm

I also think that calculator are predicting ET that are very attractive.
The weight of the car is I think the major reason for the difference between what is predicted and what is accomplish at the track.

Solving suspension and traction problem to minimize the old rule of inertia that cannot be changed.

Heavier the car is, wider is the difference.

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