Timing Curve

General Gauges, Wiring, Ignition..

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chpcamaro
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Re: Timing Curve

#61 Post by chpcamaro » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:25 pm

are you saying your running 4 gauge from the truck to the starter if so i would change that to atleast 1 gauge 4 gauge is to small for that distance in my eye's i always run welding cable 1gauge so not to lose anything from the battery to the starter well thats if i under stand you right if not disregard
rob :mrgreen:
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hugger73hatch
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Re: Timing Curve

#62 Post by hugger73hatch » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:39 pm

chpcamaro wrote:are you saying your running 4 gauge from the truck to the starter if so i would change that to atleast 1 gauge 4 gauge is to small for that distance in my eye's i always run welding cable 1gauge so not to lose anything from the battery to the starter well thats if i under stand you right if not disregard
rob :mrgreen:

No sorry. I have a solenoid on the firewall. Coming from the trunk to the solenoid it is 1 gauge, as well as the battery ground. The 4 gauge is from the solenoid on the firewall to the starter.
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bracketracer
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Re: Timing Curve

#63 Post by bracketracer » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:47 pm

Ok, go down to a welding store and get your self some #2 copper welding wire. run this from your battery all the way to your starter,or if your using a bulkhead up front then you can use a #4 wire to the starter from your bulkhead..

Also use a #2 wire for the ground to the chassis and another one from the block to the chassis.

Get your self a optma red top and a battery tender and plug it in when you get home from racing and leave it plug in till you go again...

And do your self a favor and get an alternator on there... I use Municipal electric he can make you anything you want as he made me an Nissan alt that is the size of a large coffee cup and puts out 48 amps and 14.5 volts...Works like a charm and right now it's 4 years old and not one problem!!! He also made me a starter same results...No problems

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hugger73hatch
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Re: Timing Curve

#64 Post by hugger73hatch » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:55 pm

bracketracer wrote:Ok, go down to a welding store and get your self some #2 copper welding wire. run this from your battery all the way to your starter,or if your using a bulkhead up front then you can use a #4 wire to the starter from your bulkhead..

Also use a #2 wire for the ground to the chassis and another one from the block to the chassis.

Get your self a optma red top and a battery tender and plug it in when you get home from racing and leave it plug in till you go again...

And do your self a favor and get an alternator on there... I use Municipal electric he can make you anything you want as he made me an Nissan alt that is the size of a large coffee cup and puts out 48 amps and 14.5 volts...Works like a charm and right now it's 4 years old and not one problem!!! He also made me a starter same results...No problems
Already have 1 gauge going to a bulkhead a 1 gauge to the ground, but I am a bit worried I may not have a good ground to be honest with you. I also don't have the block grounded. I will get these corrected and see if that helps.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

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bracketracer
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Re: Timing Curve

#65 Post by bracketracer » Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:58 pm

The ground could be your hole problem :shock: ...Take your battery out and make sure it's fullie charged and have it load tested at your local repair shop :mrgreen:

If you kept on killing that battery it may be finished :(

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chpcamaro
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Re: Timing Curve

#66 Post by chpcamaro » Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:33 pm

i never under stood the whole idea about using the remote starter solenoid on the fire wall when the solenoid on the starter still has to work but now you have 2 to cause a problem. i have never had a problem with a starter not working that i thought that i would have to use a second solenoid i must be missing something??
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Bob West
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Re: Timing Curve

#67 Post by Bob West » Thu Nov 13, 2008 4:19 pm

The advantage that I see is that once your car is started there are no hot wires running to the starter, nothing to short out or get burnt by a hot header. The wire from the furd solenoid is hot only when starting.
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hugger73hatch
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Re: Timing Curve

#68 Post by hugger73hatch » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:12 pm

Bob West wrote:The advantage that I see is that once your car is started there are no hot wires running to the starter, nothing to short out or get burnt by a hot header. The wire from the furd solenoid is hot only when starting.

X2.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
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chpcamaro
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Re: Timing Curve

#69 Post by chpcamaro » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:29 pm

ok i was wondering why thank you for the info i thought it was strange to use just for starting
rob
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hugger73hatch
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Re: Timing Curve

#70 Post by hugger73hatch » Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:51 pm

Finally got around to hooking ground cable up to block and it looks like it has made a difference. Car had not been started in about 3 weeks, but I did have the battery fully charged. Pumped the gas twice hit the key and voila, she started right up and ran like a dream. Turned it off, hit the key again and started right up with no kickback. I hope this has fixed the problem.
73 Nova Hatchback, 408 Small Block 13-1, Iron Heads, 6.972 @ 98.362, 1.468 60', 3450 lbs, still tuning
28 x 9 Slick, N/A

http://www.esquireservices.net

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