Alum or Steel Driveshaft ??

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ERV JR
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Alum or Steel Driveshaft ??

#1 Post by ERV JR » Wed Dec 12, 2007 5:52 pm

What are you guys running with nitrous cars with aprx 1000 hp ? I have been told that a 3 1/2 inch alum would be fine then another shot a 4 inch alum, then told with nitrous that I should have a 3 inch dom steel shaft built. Thats what I get for price shopping .

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jmarkaudio
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#2 Post by jmarkaudio » Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:51 pm

I would suggest the largest diameter that will fit under the car, that will be the strongest. A driveshaft, like a pushrod is stronger the larger you can make the diameter. Also why you can gun drill an axle, it's strength is mostly in the outer diameter diminishing in need as you get to the center. I like steel, strong and not as expensive. If you can get a 4" steel built and fits, thats the best. Aluminum and composites save some weight, but also take it out of your wallet.
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#3 Post by John_Heard » Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:25 pm

I've read recently about a number of aluminum driveshafts failing in bracket dragsters which you wouldn't think would be too hard on them, but maybe it's the number of cycles. It's made me think twice about aluminum for my next one. I may just go back with chrome moly for my next one.

kyleracer
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driveshaft

#4 Post by kyleracer » Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:31 am

I checked about them when rebuilding my car 2 years ago. I was told that alum shafts will twist more on launch which is easier on rears/gears but give you a slower reaction time and also do not live as long as steel ! Carbon shafts are stronger & lighter than both but also have a shorter life cycle than both, not to mention the cost :shock: But speed is like money - how fast do you want to spend it :lol:

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#5 Post by ERV JR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:09 pm

So can I ask what dia steel shafts you have John ?

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#6 Post by John_Heard » Fri Dec 14, 2007 4:21 pm

My old one is a 3" dia and it weighs 21lbs w/trans yoke. Anyone know what the aluminum ones weigh?

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aitch o
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#7 Post by aitch o » Fri Dec 14, 2007 5:00 pm

A 4" alum driveshaft will weigh about 15# give or take, depending on lengths (non-Nova) and wall thicknesses.

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#8 Post by ERV JR » Fri Dec 14, 2007 5:01 pm

LOKKING AT A CHART ON TUBING SIZE 1 FT OF ALUM IS ABOUT HALF THE WEIGHT OF STEEL, BASED ON 83 WALL STEEL AND .125 ALUM
BUT THE ALUM SHAFTS ARE USUALLY 3 1/2 OR 4, AND I DONT KNOW WHAT THE WEIGHT ON THOSE IS

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#9 Post by John_Heard » Fri Dec 14, 2007 5:12 pm

aitch o wrote:A 4" alum driveshaft will weigh about 15# give or take, depending on lengths (non-Nova) and wall thicknesses.
Scott is that with your trans yoke? How long is your driveshaft?

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aitch o
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#10 Post by aitch o » Fri Dec 14, 2007 7:22 pm

with yoke and a chunk longer than a nova.
54ish? center to center.

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#11 Post by John_Heard » Fri Dec 14, 2007 9:36 pm

Mine's 53" center to center, so that's pretty close. 6 lb savings but... wonder how much difference it really makes since the aluminum is bigger dia?

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DRock
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Re: driveshaft

#12 Post by DRock » Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:07 pm

kyleracer wrote:I was told that alum shafts will twist more on launch which is easier on rears/gears but give you a slower reaction time
Has anyone every done a comparison test on this? How much slower?

Racer704
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#13 Post by Racer704 » Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:59 pm

I had a 10lb differance with a small CM driveshaft and a Carbon Fiber . I love the carbon Fiber and yes its expensive but when you get in my class 800. for 10lbs is cheap horsepower my nest move is carbo rear brakes and thats 12 to 13 lb differance.

I used a carbon driveshaft in the mid 90's in my 3200lb Pro Street Chevelle and it was running 7.20 195 .

Its all about what you can afford. I ran the smallest dia. Cmoly shaft in are promod with no problems.

Aluminum will not hold up long in high horse power cars.I cant tell you how many of them I have seen spit out at the track
Johnny B.

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Mike Peters
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#14 Post by Mike Peters » Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:54 am

Racer704 wrote:I had a 10lb differance with a small CM driveshaft and a Carbon Fiber . I love the carbon Fiber and yes its expensive but when you get in my class 800. for 10lbs is cheap horsepower my nest move is carbo rear brakes and thats 12 to 13 lb differance.

I used a carbon driveshaft in the mid 90's in my 3200lb Pro Street Chevelle and it was running 7.20 195 .

Its all about what you can afford. I ran the smallest dia. Cmoly shaft in are promod with no problems.

Aluminum will not hold up long in high horse power cars.I cant tell you how many of them I have seen spit out at the track
Who's carbon fiber shaft do you use Johnny? As far as the aluminum shafts, do they show twist before they break and would a stripe painted on them length-wise let you know when the end of the road is near?
"If winning was easy, losers would be doing it"

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#15 Post by Pontiac4ever » Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:37 am

I had a 3-1/2" Denny's Nitrous Ready shaft built last year to replace the 3-1/2" alum. shaft that I had. I knew with over 1000hp it's days were numbered. The Denny's was about 6# heavier, and I didn't notice any performance loss. Plus it has a lifetime warranty. Stay away from alum. unless you can get ahold of MMC alloy, but it's been discontinued.

Craig
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8.27 @ 168 on 10.5w's at 3290#'s

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