General Questions about Transbrake...

[sverbus]

First off, I picked up a transbrake at a swap meet for my powerglide. It's a stock case glide with JW insides and TCI pump with roller bearing tail shaft. Right now the tranny has a manual foward pattern valve body in it.

Im not real sure though of who the manufacturer is on the brake. I've got the entire setup with solenoid. There are GM numbers on it, but I sent those numbers to GM Performance and they are telling me it's not one of theres. So I emailed TCI and they say those arent their numbers. Plus the TCI guy told me that their center plate in the valve body is red, and mine isnt. Any clues as to how I can find out what manufacturer this thing is from?

My other concerns is just general info on the brake. I've got a full bodied 70 nova, probably roughly around 3150lbs with me in it. It's running a 434 sbc with Moly driveshaft, Ford 9" with 4.56 gears and stock axles and detroit locker diff. I run split monoleafs and caltrac bars from Calvert Racing.

Do you guys think that I should invest in after market axles? and I've heard that my car might be to heavy for a Transbrake Powerglide and that I might damage the parts.

Also, whats the best way to get up to the line wit a brake? I've never been around anyone running one nor have I ever drove a car with a brake. I was always a firm believer in foot braking the car. I also only plan on taking the car to the strip 3 or so times in a summer, is it even worth the money of redoing the tranny for the brake to be put in?

Thanks fellas,

Scott

[ytnova]

Risk wrecking your car using by using stock axles is not worth it. Supposedly a 9" won't loose a axle when it breaks, but I have still seen it happen. Definatly buy some quality axles and center section, I chose mark williams, but strange or moser would do, upgrade the spline count on both (33 or 35 spline) while you are at it. As far as using a glide, most big block cars benifit from it and it should help getting down the track on a small tire, but you might want a lower first gear set, especially with a small block. It is really a personal choice, unless you just have too much power for a three speed and blow the tires off in first, you only have two options, a digital ignition like a msd than you can take timing/power out down low(which you still might need) or a glide. My car actually left better off the foot brake than the trans brake(turbo 400), but mostly because I could flash the convertor a little higher. When I did use the trans brake, I would just bearly pull into the beams turning on the second yellow, raise the rpm(power brake), activate the trans brake, let the chassis settle by slowly releasing the brakes, but not enough to have play in the driveline(did not want to shock the pinion to hard), floor the car on the two step and release when it was almost green. It sounds like a lot, but once you practice it, you can do it in your sleep. Also buy a adjustable switch so you can play with your reaction time.

[ytnova]

P.s. my new big block combo will have a glide and it weighs in at 3400# with driver.

[sverbus]

Cool, thanks for the info. Ive got a few questions though if you don't mind.

You say to floor the car using a two step, are you meaning the second rpm limiter that my Mallory Hyfire 6 system has? I run that mallory box, MSD pro-billet Distributor with Mallory Pro-master coil.

I have the lighest curve set in the distributor, all the advance is in by 3000rpm, I was thinking of putting the advance lockout in the distributor because my Mallory box has a start retard built in it.

Also thinking of putting in an aluminum center section with a spool and 35spline Moser axles...and then putting the back brace on the 9" housing....what do you think of putting that aluminum center section a heavy car like that?

Any ideas on that?

Thanks again,

Scott

[ytnova]

I actually have a three step limiter. One is for the burnout box, which is activated with the line lock, the second I use with the trans brake, and the third is the standard for use when driving/racing. I would assume the second one on a mallory would be used the same way, just run it off a relay with the trans brake and/or line lock. As for the timing, mine is locked out, and I didn't use the start retard because mine had low enough compression to start with it locked out, and did not need it. Trial and error as far as the advance, which ever makes the car faster, but I would probably have it all in before the convertor is locked. The advantage of locking the timing out and using a digital box is that you can plot the timing anyway you need it to get the car to hook and make the most power. I don't have much experence with 9" rear ends or center sections, I would contact strange or mark williams on that. I elected to use the stock big 8.5" ten bolt for my car. Mark williams said for my power and the weight, their 35 spline axles, their spool, a solid pinion crush sleeve, welding in the axle tubes and instaling a tube style brace with a aluminum aftermarket cover would suffice. Other than that they said go with a dana 60 for total reliability. Just depends on what you have, a 9" with the right parts can be more than bullit proof and a spare center section sure makes it easy to change gears so you can cruise also.