Moving the Valve Stem Hole in B/S Wheels?

[HPDRIFTER]

I posted this on Yellow Bullet and haven't gotten a response; not even a wise crack. Imagine that.
Anyway, hows about you guys take a crack at it?

I will take a big chance here and ask for your input on a problem I have and my planned solution:

I am putting 15x10 Billet Specialities Street Lite wheels with 7 1/2" backspace on my Mustang, with 11.5x28 M/T Streets and M/T tubes.

The area on the face of the rim where the valve stem hole is drilled by the factory isn't wide enough for the hole to be enlarged to allow the M/T tube stem to fit. (Probably due to the extra inch of backspace - the car is mini-tubed and otherwise the wheels are perfect for it.)

Here's my plan: There's 7/8" between the back face of the wheel spokes and the front face of the Strange brake calipers. Unless someone can show me that it's a mistake, I plan on having the original valve stem holes welded shut and drilling a new, larger hole 7/16" behind the face of the spokes, centered between two spokes. The brass lock ring for the tube stem is 3/4" outside diameter, so centering the hole 7/16" from both the back face of the spokes and the front face of the caliper should provide (hopefully) adaquate clearance, and placing it in the middle of the large opening between two spokes should allow easy access for pressure adjustment.

Anyone see an error in my logic?


One member of this board came by the house the other night and had a look. His opnion is valid, but I'd like others before I cunt into a $800 pair of wheels.................

[Bruce69Camaro]

Not to be a smart ass, but have you thought about going tubeless?

Save you a lot of hassle and also a $800 pair of rims.

Bruce

[K-Star Automotive]

I would find some one with a bridgeport style mill and have the hole machined in the same location it is in. By using a mill you can off set the new bigger hole so that the part of the hole closest to the lip is still there, but the rest of the hole is outboard.

Can you post a picture of the wheel now so i can get a better idea of what the configuration is now.

Keith

[HPDRIFTER]

Keith,
Thanks for the put. I have a vertical mill and considered doing something very similar to what you suggested, but the problem is that the diameter hole required would cut into the radius on both sides (one up and one down).

I spoke breifly with Kevin at Hotrod Underground this afternoon. We decided that by turning a plug with a flange on the inside and a chamfer on the outside, he can will minimize the heat that he will have to introduce into the rim to weld it in place.

Come to think of it, I could thread it and screw it in from the inside........................ I was joking, but seeing it in print, it almost makes sense!

Bruce,
Tubes because I'm tired of weeping slicks. But thanks for the thought.

[vegaracer]

Wipe the inside of the sidewalls with dish soap. It slows the leaks down. Had a pair of slicks that would go flat in 3 days. Did the soap thing and they could go two weeks before needing air.

[bert]

Dish Soap X2

[HPDRIFTER]

Yeah, I'd forgot all about the old dishsoap trick. I might just take the tube out and do it.
Always perfered the old popcorn trick, myself.

[Bruce69Camaro]

Not to sound like someone just coming off the bus, but on one site I'm on, there was a posting on what "brand" dishsoap is the best to use in slicks and in the end, it was palmolive, seriously.

My Goodyears have been holding 10psi for over a month now and they had dishsoap applied on sidewalls.

Bruce

[wikd69]

Yeah, I'd forgot all about the old dishsoap trick. I might just take the tube out and do it.
Always perfered the old popcorn trick, myself.

popcorn trick ?

[vegaracer]

Yeah, I'd forgot all about the old dishsoap trick. I might just take the tube out and do it.
Always perfered the old popcorn trick, myself.

popcorn trick ?

Wondering the same myself. Slather the insides with movie theater popcorn butter maybe?